thomas w. palmer

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Palmer Park - Log Cabin

It is so hard for me to believe that this building still exists. But I am grateful.

Just witness in the season how the crowds of visitors from abroad press and crowd through the rustic log cabin at Palmer Park, a structure so suggestive, in a way, of the early days, and besides it is situated quite near (little over a stone’s throw) Mad Anthony Wayne’s road through the woods to Pontiac, over which his army marched with its artillery and wagon train so long ago.

General Friend Palmer

The Log Cabin — commissioned by the General’s cousin, Senator Thomas W. Palmer, as a gift for his wife Lizzie — opened in 1887. The Palmers summered and entertained there until 1893, when they gave the city of Detroit 140 acres of their land, including the cabin, for a public park.

That park — you know it as Palmer Park — was originally called Log Cabin Park.

I love the Log Cabin, but I have always wondered: Why a log cabin? What did it look like on the inside? Did they just build it for the scenery, or to store the family antiques, or did they actually plan to use it?

I thought this might be a chapter in my book, but as my deadline pressed closer I had to quietly scratch it from my research plan. So I was really relieved when your friend & mine Dan Austin asked me to write about the old Log Cabin for his new site (now in beta!), HistoricDetroit.org.

To answer one of those questions, here’s what it looks like on the inside.

Palmer Park - Log Cabin - Interior View

(Source) (This picture takes my breath away, every time.)

(Source)

And yes, people actually lived there, at least during the summer, although they also used it to show off some family heirlooms, including a century-old piano, a mahogany grandfather clock built in 1787 which once belonged to Lizzie’s grandfather Judge James Witherell, and hand-me-down furniture from the early 1800s.

So why a log cabin?

This used to baffle me, but as I was working on the book, I started to feel like I recognized, and to some extent understood, Detroit’s pioneer imagination. People did, at one time, live in log cabins in Detroit. By the time Lizzie and Tom got around to building theirs, those people were dead or dying, their log cabins long destroyed. Detroit was more crowded than it had ever been. And the old ways of making a home — by fire, by farm, by flint-lock pistol — had given way to modern convenience, urban efficiency, and industrial fortune.

Of course, the Palmers reaped tremendous industrial fortune, and their Log Cabin did not lack modern convenience — although there was an old-timey iron pot on a crane in the dining room fireplace, Lizzie had a brand-new Detroit Jewel stove in the kitchen.

But they still missed the old days. And at the Old Log Cabin, they could relive them at their leisure.

Read more about the Old Log Cabin at HistoricDetroit.org.

And here’s my first post about Palmer Park, back when I first discovered that Thomas W. Palmer was not only related to, but much more famous than, General Friend Palmer.

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Making do

Our Sunday started thus: We had just enjoyed some bloodies (well, a Blatz for my sweetheart, who’s never taken to Queen Mary) and a big plate of breakfast at the Bronx.

Then we set out (soberly, I swear) for Delray. Our mission:  Fort Wayne, Detroit’s star-shaped riverbank bulwark against British/Canadian troops that never came.

News came through the wire two weeks ago that proposed cuts in the City Council’s budget could result in the indefinite closure of Fort Wayne to the public. Since the Council overturned the Mayor’s veto, I guess that could be imminent. We wanted to get a visit in before the Fort started popping up in the Flickr feeds of ruin-creepers.

Maybe it’s already too late. When we got to Fort Wayne and drove through the gates on a gorgeous Sunday afternoon, perfect for a walk around the old fortress walls, as I dug through my purse for some cash, the parking attendant told us that they weren’t open yet.

“What do you mean, yet?” we asked. “It’s 2:30 in the afternoon.”

“I mean, for the season,” she said. “We were supposed to open Memorial Day weekend. But we didn’t. And now it’s up in the air.”

So we drove back to the city center, my heart in my lap. We tried to think of another outing. He wanted to go to the museum. I wanted to take a walk by the river. We couldn’t find anywhere to park. The museum sounded stuffy. We drove back home.

Here’s the thing: Detroit has real problems. The budget is one of them. An empty 19th-century garrison post, understandably, does not rank high on the list of financial priorities, if it ranks at all. It’s not a space like Belle Isle where people go to grill, bike, fish and relax. Tucked away in Southwest, it doesn’t have the gaping majesty (or danger to pedestrians) of an abandoned tower. Any place that claims flea markets, ghost hunting and Civil War reenactments as its biggest tourist draws is probably a hard sell.

But Detroit’s ongoing failure to tend to its historical legacy is tiring. It makes me so uneasy to imagine Fort Wayne — a place Civil War soldiers returned to and, a century later, drafted Vietnam soldiers decamped — shuttered and crumbling.

Later in the day, some friends called and asked me to join them for a picnic in Palmer Park. Eager for the chance to save the day from my own storminess, I hopped on my bike, stopped at the liquor store for a bottle of champagne and pedaled south on Woodward to 7 Mile.

Palmer Park, the gorgeous, sprawling space granted to the city by Senator Thomas Witherell Palmer — on the condition that its virgin forest be left alone — was a little muddy and unkempt the last time I visited. It was early in March, so I may have been quick to judge. This summer, the park is overrun with geese and there are huge, hungry mosquitoes everywhere (thanks, at least in part, to the lagoon you see in this picture), but it’s crowded and full of activity: people out grilling, jogging, walking dogs, playing tennis and basketball, or just hanging out by their cars and blaring thumpy music through their speakers.

For a while we sat at the fountain and watched a drum circle.

(In its original setting.)

(Today. Photo by Dan Austin/BuildingsofDetroit.com)

Noah rang Senator Palmer’s Spanish bell.

Then we enjoyed some refreshments at a picnic table in the shadow of some lofty pines and an empty swimming pool.

No one actually brought any food, as it turned out, so we left Palmer Park after a few drinks and biked all the way to Mexicantown, a 10-mile trip through a corridor of burned-out buildings in Highland Park, the brick stoops of Clairmount, a long, open stretch on Rosa Parks, into Woodbridge (where I was promised GOATS! but they weren’t out) and Corktown and across the new Bagley pedestrian bridge to margaritas and taco paradise.

A day that started with defeat (OK: delicious brunch, followed by defeat) turned into one of the best, most promising days of the season.

Fort Wayne could close; Lizzie Merrill’s fountain is dry and pillaged; the Senator’s cabin is tagged-up and guarded by clouds of bloodthirsty insects.

But on Sunday evening, the sun was low and the breeze was warm. Kids rode bikes in their driveways and people sat on their porches. At Los Galanes, we watched from the patio while a couple slow-danced in the street.

Detroit’s past matters. A lot. Detroit’s future matters more. But at the risk of sounding trite and kind of drunk, sometimes you need to enjoy where you are and what you’re doing in your own present moment and let that count for something.

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Last weekend I hosted my first out-of-town guest. She was a good sport, and highly amenable to being dragged around on whatever journeys we felt would be edifying. With Detroit, even when you’re showing it off to the dear people in your life who are smart and perceptive and fair and not creeps, the pressure is on to get it right. I don’t want anyone going home to Milwaukee wondering why I left, or telling all of our friends that love it as I may, I live in an awful place.

I think we did the best we could with the time we had: a greatest hits tour that started with Grand Circus Park and a loop on the People Mover, then on to Campus Martius, the Guardian Building, Belle Isle & the Conservatory, Jim Scott and his Folly, Flower Day at Eastern Market, anteaters at the Zoo that wrestled like puppies, and lots of time in between for eating and drinking and hanging around. We drove by the Garland Stove, all locked up behind the indefinitely shackled State Fairground gates. We introduced her to Hazen S. Pingree, William Cotter Maybury, the good people of City Bird and Cass Café. I narrated everything kind of  shakily, blurring details and scrambling chronologies and not answering questions very well in my great excitement to share it all.

Lately it’s been hard to let my mind settle on one topic of interest for a nice, slow, productive stretch. Every night that goes by without attention paid to Detroit history brings anxiety, doubt, and a party of excuses: too much noise on the input channel, too many hours at my day job, too many glasses of wine when my day job is over, way too much fret expended on this wedding I’m having which, while nowhere near go-day (we haven’t even scheduled go-day), is starting to take on some promising shape.

Then I remember that this is just called writing. Sometimes you like it. Sometimes you don’t. Sometimes it’s easy. Sometimes it’s not. Sometimes you just don’t have time for it, and other times, when you do, you just can’t make heads or tails of anything.

All week after my friend left, I tried to write about anything, anything, we saw together. Eastern Market? It’s really old — in the 1880s, Silas Farmer was getting nostalgic about the way it “used to be”:

The glory of the ancient market-days has departed. The black-eyed, olive-skinned maidens, in short petticoats, from the Canada shore, no longer bring “garden-sauce and greens,” the French ponies amble not over our paved streets, and little brown-bodied carts no longer throng the marketplace. In the brave days of old, every one went to market, and most persons to the City Hall Market. Marketing and visiting were combined. In the market the rich and poor met together; it was common ground, and the poorest were sure of a “good morning” from the richest in town.

What about Belle Isle? Ile de Cochons? Where the French let their wild hogs loose to get rid of all the rattlesnakes? The island that, in 1769,  Lt. George McDougall, with permission from George III, bought from Ottowa and Chippewa Indians for “five barrels of rum, three rolls of tobacco, three pounds of vermilion, and a belt of wampum, an additional three barrels of rum and three pounds of paint to be delivered when possession was taken”? The place where an appraisal from 1780 reported “3 dwelling houses, A fowl house, Some lumber, and 1 old barn without a top”?

The fiancé thought there might be a good story in how the anteaters got to the Zoo.

I’d lay in bed for long stretches, surrounded by big fat history books, idly paging through them, waiting for something electrical to surge in me. I’d get frantic: there just seemed to be so much to talk about, so much to learn about, so much I know nothing about, and so many connections to zip together.

In the end it was Silas Farmer that helped me push through this boring block, not with an account of “Uncle Ben” Woodworth and his Steamboat Hotel or reports of the municipal animal pounds that became important when the growing city got too crowded with loose livestock. It was his gentle and encouraging introduction to the book, which discusses his approach to writing about history, that shook me to action. A few excerpts:

In view of the strange and interesting incidents connected with the history of Detroit, and the fact that it epitomizes the history of half the continent, and furnishes much information that is duplicated in the annals of no other city, it seems strange indeed that no one has heretofore attempted a comprehensive view of our fair domain. Undoubtedly there are those who could have woven a finer web, but none could be more earnest or enthusiastic … I have studied Cadillac’s own writings, handled tomahawks and scalping-knives stained with the blood of a century ago, read original letters written by Gladwin and Clark and, bending over the moldering dust of Hamtramck, “the friend of Washington,” have received inspiration for my task.

… As Columbus, when he saw branches of trees and seaweed drifting from the west, was led by the law of induction to infer the existence of America, so a true historian, by the presence of certain facts, foreknows the existence of others, and, like Columbus, he is ready to sail upon every sea in search of what is known but undiscovered, and as he searches for one truth, innumerable others come like reefs and islands into view.

… If to be a reliable historian, one must be always cool, and calm, and unimpassioned, as some would have us believe, then I must acknowledge that I was unfitted for my task. It seems to me, however, that even in local history, the historian should be full of both the fervor and the flavor of the times he would describe.

I think anyone who throws him or herself to work on something they love can relate to the real ardor that Silas Farmer brought to his colossal (and is it fair to say unmatched?) project, A History of Detroit and Wayne County and Early Michigan (which you can read in full, online). And when it’s tough and confusing and hard to pull it all together, it’s nice to be reminded that the work is its own reward.

A final reminder from the book’s dedication (to Senator Thomas W. Palmer):

During the progress of this work many friends have greatly aided me in many ways; one of them, like myself a native of the city, not only assissted me in the manner of others, but also gave me special encouragement, saying, oftener doubtless than he remembers: “Don’t let yourself be hurried; take time to do it well.”

Cheers to that.

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james scott

Poor James Scott. Was he really so repugnant a creature as Detroit society painted him in the years after his death and before the construction of his grand fountain on Belle Isle?

The heir to a real estate fortune didn’t do much to earn himself a monument quite this enduring, and the condition he placed on building one of the country’s greatest marble fountains with almost the entirety of his estate — that it come with a life-sized commemorative  statue of himself — reeks of either pathological self-importance or a deliriously smug joke.

I just found this article from the January 29, 1911 issue of The New York Times on the end of the fight over Scott’s contentious fountain. Wait, it made national news? Oh, it did. The article begins:

This is the story of a man who led a practically blameless life for eighty years, according to the preponderance of testimony, as blameless as that of the average man at least, who loved his home, his family, his friends, and his city, the latter so much that when he died he left five-sixths of a fortune of $600,000 to the municipality of Detroit with which to build a fountain on Belle Isle, and who has been since his death, a year ago, unmercifully reviled for his generosity. James Scott was his name — ”Jim” he was universally called.

Sure, the article goes on to admit. There was that “hog block” incident, where Scott hung a giant gilded pig statue near some grocers that made him mad. And “Scott’s Folly,” of course, in which the millionaire built a mansion he never meant to occupy, gorgeous from the front, nothing but a high brick wall in the back to block the neighbor’s light and devalue the lot.

But remember, reminded the Times in 1911. James Scott, branded a gambler and a lowlife, just had a “cynical view of human nature” after his generosity with his own money, loaned to dozens of needy friends, was betrayed. Oh, and because that one time, he lost $86,000 in a faro game in St. Louis. The house wasn’t playing fair, though. So you can understand why he might be bitter. Plus, he had friends in high places (Senator Thomas Palmer; US Postmaster General Don M. Dickinson, Lord Sideburns)  to defend his honor.

I don’t know a lot about Mr. Scott and his fountain besides the second- and third-hand accounts I’ve read, and it does make me suspicious that the biggest objection to this gift would be the fact that he liked poker and ribaldry at the Russell House. He probably wasn’t alone.

So far be it from me to believe the rumors that he was a mean-hearted playboy who never amounted to anything. Even if he was, his fountain — designed by architect Cass Gilbert, made of white marble and completed in 1925 — is pretty great, so I’ll forgive him. Any reason why I shouldn’t? Let me know.

scott fountain no fence

(Not in its full glory for the season quite yet — when I visited last week, it looked like the Fountain was undergoing some brick work.)

(Oh, AND! In that pile of Kodachrome slides from my dad’s closet we found a ton of night shots of the Scott Fountain. As I’m digitizing them, by the way, I’ll be sharing them on one of those new-fangled “Tumble blogs” the kids seem to like. Not much to look at yet, but stick with us. We’re going places.)

(detroitfamilyalbum.tumblr.com)

scott fountain at night

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“Built in 1885 as a Summer house or Cottage by Thomas W. Palmer (1830-1913), prominent Lumberman, United States Senator, Minister to Spain, and President of the 1893 Chicago World’s Columbian Exposition Commssion.
The land was purchased from the United States Government in 1833 by his Grandfather, Judge James Witherell.

In 1895 Palmer gave 120 acres of adjacent land to the City of Detroit as a park. Two years later the Log Cabin itself was added to the gift. In 1897 the area was officially designated

as Palmer Park.I do

Palmer Pakr Som

Something I hope you all realize about this blog is that I’m playing it by ear. As a former editor, I know better than to go without an editorial plan, but despite a few half-hearted attempts, I don’t have one. I have no formal scholarly training in history at all, let alone Detroit history. I can barely operate our digital camera.

On good days, I like to think that imparts a sense of adventure around here, and on especially self-inflated days, I think that the thrill of discovery is what my blog is really about. On dark days, I feel like a hack of the highest order, and in frustrated moments, I realize I’m a few steps too far behind some pretty obvious details.

Today, for instance, I made the connection between General Friend Palmer, whose memoirs we explore here on a semi-regular basis, and the more famous Detroit Palmer, Thomas W. Palmer, whose sprawling property at present-day 7 Mile and Woodward encompassed Palmer Woods, Palmer Park and the Detroit Golf Club.

They were cousins. OF COURSE. Thomas W. Palmer gave the eulogy at the General’s funeral, the text of which is printed in Early Days in Detroit. Yet I knew so little about Thomas W. until today.

thomas w palmer

He was born in 1830, in a brick house at Jefferson and Griswold. After a year at the University of Michigan, which he gave up because of a problem with his eyes, Palmer left to travel the world with some of his friends from school, paying his way by “the Daguerrean arts.”

Long story short, when he came back to Detroit he got into lumbering, farming and real estate, and then into politics, serving as a state Senator from 1879-1880 and in the US Senate from 1883-1889, where he became an advocate for women’s suffrage. After his term in the Senate, President Benjamin Harrison appointed him Minister to Spain.

His cousin the General shares this story about T.W.’s return to Europe after the traipses of his youth:

After forty one years had passed, Senator Palmer returned to Spain, to Cadiz. Not as a college graduate just released from his Alma Mater and on a voyage of pleasure or adventure, but as the accredited minister of this great republic to the court of Spain.

… One afternoon, in walking around the ramparts, we came across a somewhat dilapidated Spaniard who was seated on the outer wall fishing in the bay.

Senator Palmer accosted him in Spanish and said, “Well, my friend, I see you are fishing here yet after all these years,”

“Yes, Señor, but how many years?”

“Forty years,” responded the senator.

“Oh,” said the chap with the rod, “that was my father.” And they two had, by constant use all the years, at that point worn quite an indenture in the stone coping of the wall.

Thomas W. Palmer inherited the land that is now Palmer Park from his Grandfather, a Supreme Court Judge of the Michigan territory. In 1885, Palmer commissioned a rustic log cabin on the land to use as a summer home.

palmer park log cabin

In 1895, Palmer donated the land to the city of Detroit for use as a park, on the condition that none of the virgin forest be destroyed (it was sometimes claimed that there was a greater variety of indigenous trees and shrubs in Palmer Park than in Europe. Any arborists out there want to take that on?)

In 1897, he donated the cabin, too. The park was dedicated to him the following year.

palmer park log cabin plaque

On the lawn near the cabin is a massive bell, old-world and emerald with patina. Cast in Spain in 1793, then taken to Mexico, it was a gift to the Senator from some of his political friends:

palmer park bell from spain

At one point, Palmer’s cabin was home to other mementos of his service in Spain, including a plow and ox yoke from the convent La Rabida, whose prior convinced Queen Isabella to send Christopher Columbus on his expedition to the Americas. And General Friend writes adoringly of some of Lizzie Palmer’s “old-time” furniture, as well as some curious leather fire buckets he admired.

Palmer Park is also home to the Merrill Fountain, which was commissioned by Lizzie and unveiled at Campus Martius, in front of the old Detroit Opera House, in 1901. If you zoom in really close on this image of Woodward Avenue in 1917 (via Shorpy), you can see where it used to be:

merrill fountain

The turtle is beheaded, but I love the cattails and the bearded fish:

palmer park merrill fountain

palmer park merrill fountain 2

The fountain is no longer in working order. It was moved to Palmer Park in 1926.

For more on Thomas W. Palmer, I enjoyed skimming this biography, by Agnes M. Burton.

But for more, extraordinarily more, on Palmer Park, please check out this beautiful Souvenir, published by the Silas Farmer Company in 1908.

souvenir

“Asked what his motive was in donating Palmer Park to the people of Detroit,” writes the author, “His answer was: ‘The good of everybody.’”

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