silas farmer

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It’s the anniversary of Detroit’s Great Fire of 1805 — early Detroit’s defining moment. The fire destroyed the city nearly completely. After the city burned down, Father Richard (whose church, Ste. Anne’s, had just burned down for the second time in its amazing history) coined Detroit’s notorious motto: speramus meliora; resurget cineribus. We hope for better things; It shall rise from the ashes.

Writes Silas Farmer:

Prior to the fire of 1805, the town embraced an area of about twenty acres. Immediately after the fire, some of the inhabitants erected temporary dweelings in the midst of their former homes. Others determined to take possession of portions of the commons and build thereon.

William Hull, then Governor of the Territory (not yet a territory, actually; though an Act of Congress voted the Territory into existence on January 11, 1805, the act didn’t go into effect until after June 30, 1805), along with territorial Judge Augustus Woodward, were responsible, later that year, for the new Detroit City Plan, which included an extra 10,000 acres granted by the federal government after a visit Hull and Woodward made to Washington, with lot provisions for all pre-fire residents of the city:

The visit of Hull and Woodward to Washington resulted in the passage of the Act of April 21, 1806, which authorize the Governor and Judges to lay out a new town and ten thousand acres of land adjacent, and to convey a lot, not to exceed five thousand feet in size, to every person above the age of seventeen years who owned or inhabited a house in Detroit at the time of the fire, and who did not profess or owe allegiance to any foreign power.

Although so delayed that everyone had to improvise during the winter of 1805, the spring was apparently generous:

Toward Christmas the governor, by agreement, decided the rights of all the claimants, one by one, and located the donation lots; and about New Year every person, male and female, who lived in the town when it was burned, and whom the governor judged eligible, to the number of 251, drew their donation lots.

… Eventually the terms of the Act of 1806 were very liberally construed, and not only individual owners and occupants but in some cases their wives and even their slaves, were the recipients of donation lots.

woodward's plan

If you’ve ever wondered why it is so goddamn confusing to drive around downtown Detroit, you may have Judge Woodward’s plan for the city to thank — his “spokes of the wheel” plan, based on Washington, DC’s street grid  (see: Gratiot, Michigan, Woodward, Grand River and Jefferson Avenue) was already in place before the plan was otherwise abandoned.  You can also send your gratitude his way for Grand Circus Park and the “City of Trees” moniker. Again from Farmer:

We are certainly indebted to Chief Justice Woodward for our half-acre parks and broad avenues bordered with thrifty elms and maples. His suggestions were embodied in one of the earliest Acts of the Governor and Judges, which made provision for the planting of trees on the streets, squares and avenues. Of all the smaller parks, Grand Circus is the most beautiful. As we rest in the shade of the trees, enjoy the plash of the fountains, or watch the children at play upon the lawns, it is hard to realize that up to 1844 these parks were ponds and marshes, enlivened only by the music of the bullfrog, and used as a deposit of refuse of every kind.

Gross.

Judge Woodward named the new city’s jugular after himself, claiming (cheekily, one hopes) that it ran north — toward the woods. Right. According to contemporary gossip, the Judge was a constant, flagrant drinker; a rude, tail-chasing bachelor; loved to “bathe” outdoors when it rained; didn’t have a desk or bookshelves in his office and just kept his papers all over the floor.

He wasn’t widely considered a very effective Judge or administrator, but he gave us our strange and beautiful streets, which I guess is reason enough to honor his memory with our most celebrated thoroughfare.

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This just in from George Washington Stark! An astonishing poem about the poignancy of tearing down a neglected old property — in this case, the former home of General Lewis Cass. Rumor had it that the Chevalier Cadillac himself (the “shrewd lord of Mont Desert” ) had the house built for the chief of the Hurons in 1703. The poem was written, according to Stark, around the time that they tore the house down — in the early 1880s.

Puts today’s feral houses — and the city’s right-sizing plans — into perspective.

Half hid beside the noisy street,
Gray with old storms and summer’s heat,
The ancient house seemed all alone,
Hemmed in by walls of brick and stone,
But straight its roof, its frame was sound
From gable peak to level ground,
Of sturdy beams so square and stout
That time could never wear them out,
For many a frigate safely rides
With lighter keel and frailer sides.
Strangers would pause to ponder o’er
The low-browed eaves and deep-set door,
And wondering, ask what freakish fate
Had saved that humble pile so late,
When all beside was new and strange
And change had oft succeeded change.
But men are hurrying to and fro,
Intent to lay its glories low;
Thick through the air the shingles fly,
The roof no more shuts out the sky.
But vain each furious effort seems
To wrench apart the seasoned beams,
The oaks that lent them largest stood
Of all the giants of the wood,
That towered aloft, serenely great,
When bold Champlain sailed down the strait.
And not a withered bough was seen
Or blemish on their crowns of green,
When the shrewd lord of Mont Desert
First spoiled them of their branches fair,
And bade his artisans to bring
And shape them for the Huron King.
Well-mortised joints with bolt and brace
Held the broad timbers in their place,
Unmoved by storm or earthquake shock
As buttresses of living rock,
Now ax and lever, day by day,
Wear slow the stubborn logs away;
And deep-sunk balls and hatchet cars
Give token of long-ended wars,
When rival tribes came prowling ’round
And made each spot a battle-ground
And day by day a curious throng
Marks the dull task and tarries long,
Well-pleased to find some relic slight,
Memorial of its former plight —
Perchance a hammered bolt or key
Brought hither from beyond the sea
When great King Louis held the throne
And claimed this region as his own.

It looks like Stark got this from Farmer, who attributes the poem (“not written for public eye”) to Judge James V. Campbell. Stark published a (mercifully) abridged version of the poem.

Today I sat on the porch and read the first chapter of City of Destiny straight through while I drank a beer. It’s flowery and fanciful and regrettably dated. But its grand prose swept me away; it was like holding a lush, too-generous little biopic in my hands. What makes it imperfect as a work of scholarship make it an ideal summer swashbuckle. About Detroit! I’ll be swooning on my porch if you need me.

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Last weekend I hosted my first out-of-town guest. She was a good sport, and highly amenable to being dragged around on whatever journeys we felt would be edifying. With Detroit, even when you’re showing it off to the dear people in your life who are smart and perceptive and fair and not creeps, the pressure is on to get it right. I don’t want anyone going home to Milwaukee wondering why I left, or telling all of our friends that love it as I may, I live in an awful place.

I think we did the best we could with the time we had: a greatest hits tour that started with Grand Circus Park and a loop on the People Mover, then on to Campus Martius, the Guardian Building, Belle Isle & the Conservatory, Jim Scott and his Folly, Flower Day at Eastern Market, anteaters at the Zoo that wrestled like puppies, and lots of time in between for eating and drinking and hanging around. We drove by the Garland Stove, all locked up behind the indefinitely shackled State Fairground gates. We introduced her to Hazen S. Pingree, William Cotter Maybury, the good people of City Bird and Cass Café. I narrated everything kind of  shakily, blurring details and scrambling chronologies and not answering questions very well in my great excitement to share it all.

Lately it’s been hard to let my mind settle on one topic of interest for a nice, slow, productive stretch. Every night that goes by without attention paid to Detroit history brings anxiety, doubt, and a party of excuses: too much noise on the input channel, too many hours at my day job, too many glasses of wine when my day job is over, way too much fret expended on this wedding I’m having which, while nowhere near go-day (we haven’t even scheduled go-day), is starting to take on some promising shape.

Then I remember that this is just called writing. Sometimes you like it. Sometimes you don’t. Sometimes it’s easy. Sometimes it’s not. Sometimes you just don’t have time for it, and other times, when you do, you just can’t make heads or tails of anything.

All week after my friend left, I tried to write about anything, anything, we saw together. Eastern Market? It’s really old — in the 1880s, Silas Farmer was getting nostalgic about the way it “used to be”:

The glory of the ancient market-days has departed. The black-eyed, olive-skinned maidens, in short petticoats, from the Canada shore, no longer bring “garden-sauce and greens,” the French ponies amble not over our paved streets, and little brown-bodied carts no longer throng the marketplace. In the brave days of old, every one went to market, and most persons to the City Hall Market. Marketing and visiting were combined. In the market the rich and poor met together; it was common ground, and the poorest were sure of a “good morning” from the richest in town.

What about Belle Isle? Ile de Cochons? Where the French let their wild hogs loose to get rid of all the rattlesnakes? The island that, in 1769,  Lt. George McDougall, with permission from George III, bought from Ottowa and Chippewa Indians for “five barrels of rum, three rolls of tobacco, three pounds of vermilion, and a belt of wampum, an additional three barrels of rum and three pounds of paint to be delivered when possession was taken”? The place where an appraisal from 1780 reported “3 dwelling houses, A fowl house, Some lumber, and 1 old barn without a top”?

The fiancé thought there might be a good story in how the anteaters got to the Zoo.

I’d lay in bed for long stretches, surrounded by big fat history books, idly paging through them, waiting for something electrical to surge in me. I’d get frantic: there just seemed to be so much to talk about, so much to learn about, so much I know nothing about, and so many connections to zip together.

In the end it was Silas Farmer that helped me push through this boring block, not with an account of “Uncle Ben” Woodworth and his Steamboat Hotel or reports of the municipal animal pounds that became important when the growing city got too crowded with loose livestock. It was his gentle and encouraging introduction to the book, which discusses his approach to writing about history, that shook me to action. A few excerpts:

In view of the strange and interesting incidents connected with the history of Detroit, and the fact that it epitomizes the history of half the continent, and furnishes much information that is duplicated in the annals of no other city, it seems strange indeed that no one has heretofore attempted a comprehensive view of our fair domain. Undoubtedly there are those who could have woven a finer web, but none could be more earnest or enthusiastic … I have studied Cadillac’s own writings, handled tomahawks and scalping-knives stained with the blood of a century ago, read original letters written by Gladwin and Clark and, bending over the moldering dust of Hamtramck, “the friend of Washington,” have received inspiration for my task.

… As Columbus, when he saw branches of trees and seaweed drifting from the west, was led by the law of induction to infer the existence of America, so a true historian, by the presence of certain facts, foreknows the existence of others, and, like Columbus, he is ready to sail upon every sea in search of what is known but undiscovered, and as he searches for one truth, innumerable others come like reefs and islands into view.

… If to be a reliable historian, one must be always cool, and calm, and unimpassioned, as some would have us believe, then I must acknowledge that I was unfitted for my task. It seems to me, however, that even in local history, the historian should be full of both the fervor and the flavor of the times he would describe.

I think anyone who throws him or herself to work on something they love can relate to the real ardor that Silas Farmer brought to his colossal (and is it fair to say unmatched?) project, A History of Detroit and Wayne County and Early Michigan (which you can read in full, online). And when it’s tough and confusing and hard to pull it all together, it’s nice to be reminded that the work is its own reward.

A final reminder from the book’s dedication (to Senator Thomas W. Palmer):

During the progress of this work many friends have greatly aided me in many ways; one of them, like myself a native of the city, not only assissted me in the manner of others, but also gave me special encouragement, saying, oftener doubtless than he remembers: “Don’t let yourself be hurried; take time to do it well.”

Cheers to that.

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menagerie

The public are respectfully informed that the Garden continues open to visitors. The Museum, consisting of some of the finest specimens of Ornithology, Minerals, Coins, natural and artificial curiosities, and a Grand Cosmorama occupying one building of the Garden, another containing thirty seven wax figures of some of the most interesting characters. The Garden will be illuminated every fair evening and a band of music will heighten the enjoyment of a walk through upwards of three thousand feet of promenade walk.

Refreshments as usual. The Baths are likewise in order for company.

Aug 19., 1840

(From Silas Farmer’s History of Detroit and Michigan, 1884. Unrelated illustration from the Library of Congress.)

David McKinstry came to Detroit from Hudson, New York in 1815 with his wife and four children. He didn’t have any money or a bankable trade, but he was a hard worker and an apparently ambitious guy. He joined the fire department, was soon appointed inspector of the port, and eventually attracted the attention of Lewis Cass, who placed him as commissioner on several territorial projects, including the Saginaw Road and the establishment of a county seat. I suppose in a sloppy harbor settlement of a few thousand people, it might not be too hard to get your name out there. Nonetheless, David McKinstry made his name. He served as a contractor on the county court house, established a ferry across the river (operated by French ponies, somehow) and was elected alderman in 1824.

But besides his generally industrious city- and state-building endeavors, McKinstry busied himself with an entertainment empire that must have been a huge spectacle at the time: the Michigan Garden, with its accompanying theater, circus, menagerie and museum of curiosities. (It may have been the city’s first “museum” proper; it opened in 1834.)

David McKinstry came to my attention via History of Detroit for Young People, which I just checked out of the library again. His collection of bathtubs, novel at the time, is really what started this whole inquiry:

The earliest tub in the United States was built in 1842, in a house in Cincinnati. It was a large and expensive arrangement in a mahogany case and its owner showed it to his guests at a Christmas party. He invited them to try it out, and several men did so. The newspapers went after him and said we were a simple republican people and that we ought to be ashamed to imitate the foolish luxuries of Europe.

… While Cincinnati was proudly boasting about her new stationary bathtubs, Major David C. McKinstry, a prominent Detroiter, not to be outdone, in the early forties put a number of wooden tubs in a small building facing his amusement park … One could take a bath and have a band concert near at hand, while the clatter of dishes, the cries of the animals in the little zoo, and the chatter of merrymakers in the park echoed pleasantly through the thin walls. You would not mind a bath with such a happy setting, would you?

David McKinstry’s museum and most of its collection was destroyed by a fire in 1842. Oh, and his son Justus McKinstry was a controversial Civil War general who may or may not be responsible for the phrase “pork barrel spending.” A lot more information about the McKinstry family is available in Rogue, a biography of the General, here.

justus mckinstry

Now I’m kind of excited about early circuses, museums and public gardens. If you know about any good ones, why are you keeping it to yourself?

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UPDATE: Silas Farmer’s death certificate is in the Michigan state archives. He died suddenly on December 28, 1902, apparently of a heart attack. He was living in present-day midtown, at 52 Selden, and is buried in Elmwood Cemetery. Next stop, as my mom sassily pointed out to me on Twitter (MOMS ON TWITTER!!), is a real-life library.

**

I wish I knew! The man was apparently one of the most important Michigan historians in history (which seems like a strange thing to say) and wrote dozens of books including the seminal, oft-referenced 1884 tome History of Detroit and Michigan, 1890’s History of Detroit and Wayne County and Early Michigan, as well as lesser known classics like All About Cleveland; The Young Men’s Christian Associations Hymn Book; Guide to the Streets, Street Pavements, street car routes and house numbers of Detroit and The Drinker’s Dictionary (which I would really like to read).

All I know about Silas Farmer at this point is from a foreward to Silas Farmer’s book, Souvenir of The Pointe: Grosse Pointe on Lake Saint Claire, graciously reprinted from a 1974 edition of the book by the Grosse Pointe Historical Society:

Son of John Farmer, Detroit’s earliest map publisher, Silas Farmer began his career by following in his father’s footsteps.  While working on maps, he conceived the idea of writing the history of Detroit and was soon launched on a literary career.

john farmer_district surveyor

John Farmer: Map of the City of Detroit in the State of Michigan, 1835. Library of Congress.

John Farmer, born in New York in 1798, moved to Detroit in 1821 at the invitation of Governor Lewis Cass. He was an admired and eccentric character in the city, as General Friend Palmer recalls in his memoir Early Days in Detroit. Palmer remembers Farmer’s sawed-in-half schoolhouse — with a bell! — and his cartographic fire:  

I think John Farmer lived on the opposite corner of the same streets, in a frame dwelling on the rear of his lot, and I also think he carried on his map-engraving and printing in the same house. This building was once a part of the old wooden building that stood on the corner of Griswold and Larned, where is now the Campau block. When Griswold was widened, it was found that this building was in the way.

… The common council ordered it sawed in two, and John farmer bought the part that was in the street and moved it to his lot on Monroe.

Farmer was a wonderful man in his way, a most competent surveyor and a finished engraver, as the work on his maps show. Endowed with surprising energy, it always seemed to me that the steam engine within him, so to speak, must sooner or later wear him out, and it did. I knew him intimately and when I was in business sold thousands of dollars’ worth of his maps.

All Palmer writes about Silas is that he helped convince the city to rename part of Grand River East “Wilcox Street.”

Silas was born in June 1839; in 1882 he was chosen as City Historiographer of Detroit. And sometime around 1878, Silas Farmer wrote an Illustrated Guide and Souvenir of Detroit, one of a series of guides and souvenirs Farmer published under his own imprint at the end of the 19th century.

I found several endearing passages and illustrations from the 1878 edition, although there are a few updated versions available on the Internet Archive. The whole thing is basically a TOUR ITINERARY, which as you may know is my favorite thing, although on this occasion I feel no reason to actually take the tour, as I’m confident that mostly nothing of it exists anymore.

The guide begins:

The most comprehensive view of the City can be obtained by ascending the tower of the City Hall. Go as early as 9 a.m. Take a field glass with you, and from the window of the tower you will see sights and scenery that will well repay for the rather tiresome climbing of the 200 steps. The whole City, river and islands, and even Lake St. clair, will lie before you like a panorama. Each window of the tower will reveal beautis of its own.

The most comprehensive view of the City can be obtained by ascending the tower of the City Hall. Go as early as 9 a.m.

Take a field glass with you, and from the window of the tower you will see sights and scenery that will well repay for the rather tiresome climbing of the 200 steps. The whole City, river and islands, and even Lake St. clair, will lie before you like a panorama. Each window of the tower will reveal beauties of its own.

Here’s an illustration of the view from the City Hall tower — down Woodward, toward the river — in 1878:

silas farmer_woodward view

And Silas Farmer, as I do, recommends a wandering hour in Elmwood Cemetery:

silas farmer_elmwood cemetery

[From McDougall], A walk of some five blocks on Elmwood Avenue will bring you to Elmwood cemetery, where an hour or more can be spent very pleasantly among the many beautiful walks and drives and monuments.

Again taking Jeffereson Avenue to the eastward, within the distance of a block from Elmwood, you pass on the right the immense stove factory and warerooms of the Michigan Stove Company; and immediately afterwards, the Old Pontiac Tree, like some Rip Van winkle of the forest, stands before you.

Did you know that in the 1880s, Detroit was the stove-making capital of the world? Neither did I, but it seems that the fates of the Stove Company and the Pontiac Tree were intertwined, or at least of mutual interest.

As usual, half of what’s so interesting about these old pamphlets are the incredible advertisements:

silas farmer_shoe ad

silas farmer_turkish bath

Turkish baths? Why don’t we still have those?

And who was Silas Farmer? Where did he live?  Did he write a diary? Or letters? Where is Silas Farmer hiding?

Help me out, America!

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