palmer park

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EDIT (as of 10/24/11): Thanks to those of you who joined us for the tour on Saturday! We had a lovely time meeting lots of new people, telling historical tales and reveling in the perfect fall weather. If you are looking for the historical photos of the old Log Cabin that I mentioned, you can find them here.

Hi pals. I have some neat posts in the hopper for you. Less “book book book!” and more of the old-timey, ramble-y, nerdy stuff you come here for. Next week is going to be a good week for reading, so clear some space on your calendar.

Meanwhile: Housekeeping!

1. FRIENDLY REMINDER: Palmer Park tour tomorrow

I had my tour orientation last weekend and let me tell you: this tour is pretty special. I will be stationed at the first tour stop, the Log Cabin, talking about Senator Thomas W. Palmer, his wife Lizzie, and the history of the park itself. But then the tour moves on to the historic apartment district that winds along the perimeter of the park, and especially if you are an architecture lover, it is a fantastic neighborhood to see on foot, first-hand.

Back in the 1920s, the Palmer Park district was located right on the interurban railway, running from the riverfront all the way to Pontiac. Full of cafes and bars, restaurants and theaters, Palmer Park attracted a diverse, vibrant, and often wealthy array of residents. The apartments, mostly commissioned between the 1920s and 1960s, display a variety of architectural styles, from an imposing Harry Potter-y English Tudor lodge to blocks of ostentatious Moorish designs and sleek, modern Art Deco lines. There’s a beautiful former Jewish temple back there and a sneaky Albert Kahn apartment building, commissioned by Walter Owen Briggs for Briggs Manufacturing Company workers who were having trouble finding apartments that would allow children.

Maybe you had relatives who lived in this neighborhood. Maybe YOU lived in this neighborhood! My dad had premarital counseling with his Rabbi in this neighborhood. It’s living history and it’s well-worth seeing.

Register here or in person tomorrow. (Tours run every 15 minutes between 12 and 2 p.m.) The tour fee includes a beautiful souvenir book, cider and donuts, and afterward there are hayrides and a bonfire.

2. THE RELEASE PARTY

These people aren’t invited.*

But you are! I made a whole page about it over here that you can share with your mom, your friends, and your favorite media personalities.

There’s a Facebook page, too. So it’s officially official. It’s free, it’s November 9, it’s at the Historical Museum, and all you have to do is show up. For cake. And hilarity.

*Clockwise from top left: Gabriel Richard; Emily Virginia Mason; Silas Farmer; Hiram Walker; Hazen Pingree; Clara Ward.

3. THIS VIDEO

Thanks for making it through the housekeeping. Now take 15 minutes to nerd out with Brian Mulloy of Michigan Essay who gave this talk about Chief Pontiac, “Detroit’s Original Badass,” at the TEDx Detroit conference last month.

Minutes after Brian started speaking, someone tweeted at me: “Uh, this guy is the boy version of you.”

To be frank I am kind of jealous that I didn’t come up with a talk like this first. It’s great. Enjoy it.

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If you’ve ever longed for the chance to hang out with me while I blog at you in person, the time has come!

This month, I will be traipsing around Detroit telling all sorts of long-winded stories about the city, its people, and its past.

October 15:  Elmwood Cemetery

In collusion with the League of Adventurous Detroiters and Atlas Obscura, join me as I introduce you to some of my favorite permanent residents of one of Michigan’s oldest and most historic cemeteries.

We’ll talk about the Battle of Bloody Run, then meet some politicians, brewers, soldiers, sailors, fur traders, frontiersmen and one hysterical Victorian actress. Maybe also a cursed cholera victim.

You can sign up here. (PLEASE NOTE: As of 10/9/11, the map that accompanies the event listing is incorrect. We will work on a correction; meanwhile, here is a correct map.)

October 22: Palmer Park

The wonderful People for Palmer Park are hosting this event to raise funds to winterize Senator Palmer’s Log Cabin. Why winterize? So restoration can begin apace in the spring, of course!

But even if this were just for kicks, I’d be honored to help share the history of this tremendous park with the world. Learn more about the log cabin, the old Spanish bell, Merrill Fountain, and the stunningly beautiful apartment district, which is listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. Afterward there are HAYRIDES! Yay, fall!

You can register here.

Still working on that book release party! Details soon!

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Palmer Park - Log Cabin

It is so hard for me to believe that this building still exists. But I am grateful.

Just witness in the season how the crowds of visitors from abroad press and crowd through the rustic log cabin at Palmer Park, a structure so suggestive, in a way, of the early days, and besides it is situated quite near (little over a stone’s throw) Mad Anthony Wayne’s road through the woods to Pontiac, over which his army marched with its artillery and wagon train so long ago.

General Friend Palmer

The Log Cabin — commissioned by the General’s cousin, Senator Thomas W. Palmer, as a gift for his wife Lizzie — opened in 1887. The Palmers summered and entertained there until 1893, when they gave the city of Detroit 140 acres of their land, including the cabin, for a public park.

That park — you know it as Palmer Park — was originally called Log Cabin Park.

I love the Log Cabin, but I have always wondered: Why a log cabin? What did it look like on the inside? Did they just build it for the scenery, or to store the family antiques, or did they actually plan to use it?

I thought this might be a chapter in my book, but as my deadline pressed closer I had to quietly scratch it from my research plan. So I was really relieved when your friend & mine Dan Austin asked me to write about the old Log Cabin for his new site (now in beta!), HistoricDetroit.org.

To answer one of those questions, here’s what it looks like on the inside.

Palmer Park - Log Cabin - Interior View

(Source) (This picture takes my breath away, every time.)

(Source)

And yes, people actually lived there, at least during the summer, although they also used it to show off some family heirlooms, including a century-old piano, a mahogany grandfather clock built in 1787 which once belonged to Lizzie’s grandfather Judge James Witherell, and hand-me-down furniture from the early 1800s.

So why a log cabin?

This used to baffle me, but as I was working on the book, I started to feel like I recognized, and to some extent understood, Detroit’s pioneer imagination. People did, at one time, live in log cabins in Detroit. By the time Lizzie and Tom got around to building theirs, those people were dead or dying, their log cabins long destroyed. Detroit was more crowded than it had ever been. And the old ways of making a home — by fire, by farm, by flint-lock pistol — had given way to modern convenience, urban efficiency, and industrial fortune.

Of course, the Palmers reaped tremendous industrial fortune, and their Log Cabin did not lack modern convenience — although there was an old-timey iron pot on a crane in the dining room fireplace, Lizzie had a brand-new Detroit Jewel stove in the kitchen.

But they still missed the old days. And at the Old Log Cabin, they could relive them at their leisure.

Read more about the Old Log Cabin at HistoricDetroit.org.

And here’s my first post about Palmer Park, back when I first discovered that Thomas W. Palmer was not only related to, but much more famous than, General Friend Palmer.

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I haven’t done one of these in a while. Probably because instead of posting lazy link round-ups when I don’t have anything fascinating to share with you, I’ve just been not posting.

But even though it’s the dead of winter, and I’m really fried (and it sounds like a lot of you are, too, based on the emails I keep getting that say, “Gah! I’m busy! It’s cold! I’m still reading, I swear!”), there’s a lot going on that I would like to discuss before marching back into the archives next week.

Let’s start with …

Robocop

I just wrote almost 500 words about Detroit’s internet-meme-borne Robocop statue, Milwaukee’s tourism-bureau-built Bronze Fonz, and why it sucks that you can’t be critical a project like this without someone saying you’re taking it too seriously.

Then I deleted all of those words. I think it’s kind of an annoying idea — I’m just so exhausted with irony — and I stand pretty much 100% behind Supergay Detroit’s Robocop party line. But I learned my lesson once, when I was a rookie journalist/blogger/new media type in Milwaukee and my blog post about the Bronze Fonz (please forgive my overuse of adjectives) led to a tipsy confrontation by the CVB’s PR flak at a city dinner. I don’t want to go through that again.

At least this public argument is a lot more ridiculous and fun. And at least Robocop is way more badass than the Fonz. Also, at the end of the day, I don’t care that much.

Detroit Lives! Open-Source Detroit Guidebook

Where do you always take people when they come to visit Detroit? What are your don’t-miss Detroit experiences? What do you suggest when people want to go beyond Comerica Park, coney dogs and the People Mover? (Or Michigan Central, Heidelberg, and Slow’s?)

Detroit Lives! wants to know for an unusual and amazing open-source Detroit guidebook project. Please submit to this! I haven’t yet, but if I do, will you, too?

I’m thinking about suggesting the log cabin in Palmer Park, built by Senator Thomas Palmer himself. When I first read about the log cabin in History of Detroit for Young People, I figured it was probably like every other quaint old landmark in that book (the Finney Barn, the streetcar stops, the old City Hall) — long lost to the ages. WRONG! And so happily wrong.

People for Palmer Park just released some trail maps, too (on their Facebook page), so you can plan your springtime treks through the virgin woods that Senator Palmer strictly insisted the city leave the hell alone.

Speaking of Facebook

We’re just a few “likes” shy of 300 Facebook followers. We just upgraded to the new page layout, too, which is a much-needed and very attractive improvement. Easier to share pictures, easier to figure out when you fine folks are sharing something with me, more interactive and just lovelier. I try not to be too aggressive about my external social media efforts because I don’t know how valuable most of them are, but I do try to keep up with my Facebook page when I’m taking a break from long-form blogging over here. So give it a thumbs up, if you please.

Valentine’s Day

Last year’s post remains one of my favorite things on the site, even though it’s closer for comfort than most of what I write here. I’ve been posting  more and more topically and far less personally lately, I think — partly due to increased constraints on my creative time; partly because, unfortunately, I’ve absorbed a lot of corporate dreck about “blogging” that I’m trying to unlearn — but my hope is that I will work back in that direction over time.

Also, in the spirit of luuuuuuuuuurve, check out Perfect Laughter’s series of interviews with couples who make art together. They are all really fun and insightful little pieces on creativity and relationships.

I am thinking about making Noelle’s recipe for mussels for my sweet man this weekend, but I actually don’t know if he likes mussels or not. Shellfish in sumptuous wine sauce just strikes me as really romantic. Is that weird? Are mussels gross?

I guess we’ll find out. Have a sexy weekend.

YOURS,

-THE NIGHT TRAIN

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Tadeusz

Here are a few things that really make me happy today.

Finally getting some face time with Polish Revolutionary War hero Thaddeus Kosciuszko,

An impromptu Kosciuszko serenade at sundown,

Dogs wading in the lagoon near the old Palmer Park lighthouse,

Public pools open for business,

Biking through Senator Palmer’s untouchable woods.

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Well, really. Just scenes of a cannon. And some fauna.

We drove into Rouge Park on Saturday to see what we could see of the nearly 1200-acre mega-park that’s scheduled to close on July 1 along with 76 other Detroit parks. I will admit, sheepishly, that I did not know this park existed until it showed up on the closures list last week.

The way I’ve heard it, the City dropped $1.3 million on several plots of farmland along the Rouge River back in the 1920s. Then they didn’t do a lot with it. As a consequence, Rouge Park is ringed by all of your standard-issue parks features (and then some: a golf course, 11 tennis courts, 14 baseball diamonds and THREE public pools, plus pony stables and an AeroModelers field), hugging a huge, quiet interior of woods, prairie and wetlands.

We found this cannon. I think it might be a commemorative reproduction, but I’m not sure of what or from when. Any ideas?

What happened in Sevilla in 1779?

Or had to do with Spain? The Battle of Baton Rouge? Something about the Revolutionary War?

Three of what?

Who or what is ENCO? And for that matter, who or what is JAMM (or is it “Jammz”)?

We saw three of these old club houses scattered around the park. I love them like Wade loves Cindy, although, it seems, they need more productive love than I can give them.

We tried, and failed, to find a trail on the River, and now I’m in hot pursuit of some trail maps. We were about to leave when we saw this pretty lady relaxing in the tall grass with her friend.

I wish I had taken more photos of all of the activity thrumming around in the park; I really do not want to make this park look neglected or underused. There were low-flying model planes humming over Jefferson Field, lots of families out grilling and swimming, bikers and hikers circling the trails and clean-up crews picking up trash on the streets. But the grace of a park like this is how easy it is to get a little lost in it.

Today at 5:00 PM, in a show of support for the closing parks, will be gathering at Palmer, Riverside, Rouge and other parks across the city. It’s been promoted as a protest rally, and if that’s your style, I’m sure you’re free to bring bullhorns and big posters. But I think it will make just as much of a statement if you just show up to picnic, play tennis or basketball, go swimming, ride bikes, grill out or take a nap in the shade. I will be at Palmer Park to PAR-TY. IN THE U.S.A. See you there.

More information on Facebook (where you can also follow The Night Train) and via the Friends of Rouge Park.

If you’re going to be at Palmer and would like to say hello, send me an email.

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To the rag bag

Hey, friends. Last week we grumbled about our dismay that Fort Wayne might close. Then we had a nice afternoon in Palmer Park, and it saved the day.

Today, the Bing administration released a list of 77 parks slated for closure on July 1. Among them: Palmer Park.

Remember when we shared that poem about the demolition of the Lewis Cass house, written in the 1880s?

Here’s General Friend Palmer on the former Territorial Governor’s home:

At the time of the demolition of the Cass [House], it was suggested by some one that the City of Detroit buy it and remove it to East Grand Circus Park, but no one in authority took any interest in the matter, the idea died out and the old historic relic when to the rag bag, so to speak.

What an attraction it would be at the present day, not only to our own citizens, but to the citizens of the entire country as well. Just witness in the season how the crowds of visitors from abroad press and crowd through the rustic log cabin at Palmer Park, a structure so suggestive, in a way, of the early days, and besides it is situated quite near (little over a stone’s throw) Mad Anthony Wayne’s road through the woods to Pontiac, over which his army marched with its artillery and wagon train so long ago.

There are many things that vex me about the closure of some of these parks. (Like the 1200-acre Rouge Park. Which is 40% bigger than Central Park.)

  • Wait, really?
  • How is this even going to work? Will there be fences? Patrols?
  • Is there anyone with the will and the capital to stop any of these parks from closing? If there were, would the City let them step in and take over?
  • What kind of collateral damage could this cause in communities served by the parks?
  • Can we do anything?

The City Council has a job to do and I respect that. It pains me, but I do.

But because I am who I am and I do what I do, I’m also pretty worried about the potential loss of these tremendous natural and historical resources. Because as the General observed in 1906, when they’re gone, they’re gone, and not just for us, but for everyone downstream of our moment in time who looks back and wonders why we didn’t have the foresight to take care of what we had when we had it.

Anyway. We’ll be keeping up on it.

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Making do

Our Sunday started thus: We had just enjoyed some bloodies (well, a Blatz for my sweetheart, who’s never taken to Queen Mary) and a big plate of breakfast at the Bronx.

Then we set out (soberly, I swear) for Delray. Our mission:  Fort Wayne, Detroit’s star-shaped riverbank bulwark against British/Canadian troops that never came.

News came through the wire two weeks ago that proposed cuts in the City Council’s budget could result in the indefinite closure of Fort Wayne to the public. Since the Council overturned the Mayor’s veto, I guess that could be imminent. We wanted to get a visit in before the Fort started popping up in the Flickr feeds of ruin-creepers.

Maybe it’s already too late. When we got to Fort Wayne and drove through the gates on a gorgeous Sunday afternoon, perfect for a walk around the old fortress walls, as I dug through my purse for some cash, the parking attendant told us that they weren’t open yet.

“What do you mean, yet?” we asked. “It’s 2:30 in the afternoon.”

“I mean, for the season,” she said. “We were supposed to open Memorial Day weekend. But we didn’t. And now it’s up in the air.”

So we drove back to the city center, my heart in my lap. We tried to think of another outing. He wanted to go to the museum. I wanted to take a walk by the river. We couldn’t find anywhere to park. The museum sounded stuffy. We drove back home.

Here’s the thing: Detroit has real problems. The budget is one of them. An empty 19th-century garrison post, understandably, does not rank high on the list of financial priorities, if it ranks at all. It’s not a space like Belle Isle where people go to grill, bike, fish and relax. Tucked away in Southwest, it doesn’t have the gaping majesty (or danger to pedestrians) of an abandoned tower. Any place that claims flea markets, ghost hunting and Civil War reenactments as its biggest tourist draws is probably a hard sell.

But Detroit’s ongoing failure to tend to its historical legacy is tiring. It makes me so uneasy to imagine Fort Wayne — a place Civil War soldiers returned to and, a century later, drafted Vietnam soldiers decamped — shuttered and crumbling.

Later in the day, some friends called and asked me to join them for a picnic in Palmer Park. Eager for the chance to save the day from my own storminess, I hopped on my bike, stopped at the liquor store for a bottle of champagne and pedaled south on Woodward to 7 Mile.

Palmer Park, the gorgeous, sprawling space granted to the city by Senator Thomas Witherell Palmer — on the condition that its virgin forest be left alone — was a little muddy and unkempt the last time I visited. It was early in March, so I may have been quick to judge. This summer, the park is overrun with geese and there are huge, hungry mosquitoes everywhere (thanks, at least in part, to the lagoon you see in this picture), but it’s crowded and full of activity: people out grilling, jogging, walking dogs, playing tennis and basketball, or just hanging out by their cars and blaring thumpy music through their speakers.

For a while we sat at the fountain and watched a drum circle.

(In its original setting.)

(Today. Photo by Dan Austin/BuildingsofDetroit.com)

Noah rang Senator Palmer’s Spanish bell.

Then we enjoyed some refreshments at a picnic table in the shadow of some lofty pines and an empty swimming pool.

No one actually brought any food, as it turned out, so we left Palmer Park after a few drinks and biked all the way to Mexicantown, a 10-mile trip through a corridor of burned-out buildings in Highland Park, the brick stoops of Clairmount, a long, open stretch on Rosa Parks, into Woodbridge (where I was promised GOATS! but they weren’t out) and Corktown and across the new Bagley pedestrian bridge to margaritas and taco paradise.

A day that started with defeat (OK: delicious brunch, followed by defeat) turned into one of the best, most promising days of the season.

Fort Wayne could close; Lizzie Merrill’s fountain is dry and pillaged; the Senator’s cabin is tagged-up and guarded by clouds of bloodthirsty insects.

But on Sunday evening, the sun was low and the breeze was warm. Kids rode bikes in their driveways and people sat on their porches. At Los Galanes, we watched from the patio while a couple slow-danced in the street.

Detroit’s past matters. A lot. Detroit’s future matters more. But at the risk of sounding trite and kind of drunk, sometimes you need to enjoy where you are and what you’re doing in your own present moment and let that count for something.

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“Built in 1885 as a Summer house or Cottage by Thomas W. Palmer (1830-1913), prominent Lumberman, United States Senator, Minister to Spain, and President of the 1893 Chicago World’s Columbian Exposition Commssion.
The land was purchased from the United States Government in 1833 by his Grandfather, Judge James Witherell.

In 1895 Palmer gave 120 acres of adjacent land to the City of Detroit as a park. Two years later the Log Cabin itself was added to the gift. In 1897 the area was officially designated

as Palmer Park.I do

Palmer Pakr Som

Something I hope you all realize about this blog is that I’m playing it by ear. As a former editor, I know better than to go without an editorial plan, but despite a few half-hearted attempts, I don’t have one. I have no formal scholarly training in history at all, let alone Detroit history. I can barely operate our digital camera.

On good days, I like to think that imparts a sense of adventure around here, and on especially self-inflated days, I think that the thrill of discovery is what my blog is really about. On dark days, I feel like a hack of the highest order, and in frustrated moments, I realize I’m a few steps too far behind some pretty obvious details.

Today, for instance, I made the connection between General Friend Palmer, whose memoirs we explore here on a semi-regular basis, and the more famous Detroit Palmer, Thomas W. Palmer, whose sprawling property at present-day 7 Mile and Woodward encompassed Palmer Woods, Palmer Park and the Detroit Golf Club.

They were cousins. OF COURSE. Thomas W. Palmer gave the eulogy at the General’s funeral, the text of which is printed in Early Days in Detroit. Yet I knew so little about Thomas W. until today.

thomas w palmer

He was born in 1830, in a brick house at Jefferson and Griswold. After a year at the University of Michigan, which he gave up because of a problem with his eyes, Palmer left to travel the world with some of his friends from school, paying his way by “the Daguerrean arts.”

Long story short, when he came back to Detroit he got into lumbering, farming and real estate, and then into politics, serving as a state Senator from 1879-1880 and in the US Senate from 1883-1889, where he became an advocate for women’s suffrage. After his term in the Senate, President Benjamin Harrison appointed him Minister to Spain.

His cousin the General shares this story about T.W.’s return to Europe after the traipses of his youth:

After forty one years had passed, Senator Palmer returned to Spain, to Cadiz. Not as a college graduate just released from his Alma Mater and on a voyage of pleasure or adventure, but as the accredited minister of this great republic to the court of Spain.

… One afternoon, in walking around the ramparts, we came across a somewhat dilapidated Spaniard who was seated on the outer wall fishing in the bay.

Senator Palmer accosted him in Spanish and said, “Well, my friend, I see you are fishing here yet after all these years,”

“Yes, Señor, but how many years?”

“Forty years,” responded the senator.

“Oh,” said the chap with the rod, “that was my father.” And they two had, by constant use all the years, at that point worn quite an indenture in the stone coping of the wall.

Thomas W. Palmer inherited the land that is now Palmer Park from his Grandfather, a Supreme Court Judge of the Michigan territory. In 1885, Palmer commissioned a rustic log cabin on the land to use as a summer home.

palmer park log cabin

In 1895, Palmer donated the land to the city of Detroit for use as a park, on the condition that none of the virgin forest be destroyed (it was sometimes claimed that there was a greater variety of indigenous trees and shrubs in Palmer Park than in Europe. Any arborists out there want to take that on?)

In 1897, he donated the cabin, too. The park was dedicated to him the following year.

palmer park log cabin plaque

On the lawn near the cabin is a massive bell, old-world and emerald with patina. Cast in Spain in 1793, then taken to Mexico, it was a gift to the Senator from some of his political friends:

palmer park bell from spain

At one point, Palmer’s cabin was home to other mementos of his service in Spain, including a plow and ox yoke from the convent La Rabida, whose prior convinced Queen Isabella to send Christopher Columbus on his expedition to the Americas. And General Friend writes adoringly of some of Lizzie Palmer’s “old-time” furniture, as well as some curious leather fire buckets he admired.

Palmer Park is also home to the Merrill Fountain, which was commissioned by Lizzie and unveiled at Campus Martius, in front of the old Detroit Opera House, in 1901. If you zoom in really close on this image of Woodward Avenue in 1917 (via Shorpy), you can see where it used to be:

merrill fountain

The turtle is beheaded, but I love the cattails and the bearded fish:

palmer park merrill fountain

palmer park merrill fountain 2

The fountain is no longer in working order. It was moved to Palmer Park in 1926.

For more on Thomas W. Palmer, I enjoyed skimming this biography, by Agnes M. Burton.

But for more, extraordinarily more, on Palmer Park, please check out this beautiful Souvenir, published by the Silas Farmer Company in 1908.

souvenir

“Asked what his motive was in donating Palmer Park to the people of Detroit,” writes the author, “His answer was: ‘The good of everybody.’”

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