great lakes shipwrecks

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Yarns

In an essay written in 1941 for a WPA Writers’ Project compilation about Michigan, Ivan Walton explored the lore of the Great Lakes and its sailors.

Included: a brief discussion of “yarns” — fantastical narratives of peril, told to a novice as sort of a hazing rite. You can almost hear stifled, grimacing laughter from the sailors who are in on the joke:

The tower of the Ford Gratiot Light at Port Huron, for example, was pointed out to apprentices as marking the place where George Washington was scalped by the Indians and buried. Saginaw Bay was the haunt of the particularly ferocious tigerfish which, at times, would attack passing vessels and do great harm if not appeased by a good dinner — and of course, like their jungle namesake, they preferred tender boys to toughened sailors.

In northern Lake Michigan, the Mormon pirates who lived on Beaver Island not infrequently lured vessels to their destruction at night by false lights and … made away with the crew and cargo. Distant Lake Superior was the home of some great sea serpents, which, at long intervals, would come to the surface when a vessel was passing and pick off any convenient member of the crew.

This Wednesday marked the 35th Anniversary of the Edmund Fitzgerald disaster. Yesterday, for Veterans Day, we visited the grave of my grandfather, who served in the Navy during World War II.

I’ve been dreaming of sailors all week — of the bones of steamers and cargo and Captains and immigrants and husbands strewn at the bottom of the Lakes.

Ivan Walton’s essay* filled that tragic little hollow with fondness and legend. And that was nice.

(*which also provides a robust collection of shanties!)

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Just a quick news hit for you: France and Michigan, still crazy after all these years, have agreed to temporarily stop issuing each other papers over a 300-year-0ld Lake Michigan shipwreck that is, at this point, hypothetical.

Le Griffon made its maiden voyage on August 7, 1679, sailing from the Niagara River across Lake Erie, Lake Huron and Lake Michigan. It was the first time a full-sized sailing ship cruised Great Lakes waters.

This was the ship from which Father Louis Hennepin regarded Detroit, writing:

… The strait is covered with forests, fruit trees like walnuts, chestnuts, plum and apple trees, wild vines loaded with grapes, of which we made some little wine. There is timber fit for building. It is the place in which deer most delight.

On its return trip, Rene La Salle’s huge brigantine left Green Bay piled with furs. Then it disappeared.

Historians, prospectors and wreck divers have been trying to find it ever since. Wreck divers of my acquaintance have described it as a kind of white whale.

Several years ago, one diver, Mr. Steven Libert of Virginia, claimed that he found it. That got France and the U.S. asking some tough questions. Michigan says it’s in our water, so it’s ours, fair game. France says La Salle sailed for the king, under the French flag, so they get it back. This kind of fighting, for more than six years, has prevented anyone from finding out whether or not this wreck is actually the Griffon and therefore actually worth fighting about.

But today, sweet history, today! Michigan and France struck a deal. Mr. Libert now has permission to go about activities like carbon dating, sonar scanning and looking for the insignia of Louis XIV on cannons.

Needless to say, your friends at the Night Train are very excited at the news of this development and will follow the story as it unfolds.

This could be a really big deal! I’ll throw a cocktail party if it’s the genuine article. You’re all invited.

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