detroit historical society

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EDIT (as of 10/24/11): Thanks to those of you who joined us for the tour on Saturday! We had a lovely time meeting lots of new people, telling historical tales and reveling in the perfect fall weather. If you are looking for the historical photos of the old Log Cabin that I mentioned, you can find them here.

Hi pals. I have some neat posts in the hopper for you. Less “book book book!” and more of the old-timey, ramble-y, nerdy stuff you come here for. Next week is going to be a good week for reading, so clear some space on your calendar.

Meanwhile: Housekeeping!

1. FRIENDLY REMINDER: Palmer Park tour tomorrow

I had my tour orientation last weekend and let me tell you: this tour is pretty special. I will be stationed at the first tour stop, the Log Cabin, talking about Senator Thomas W. Palmer, his wife Lizzie, and the history of the park itself. But then the tour moves on to the historic apartment district that winds along the perimeter of the park, and especially if you are an architecture lover, it is a fantastic neighborhood to see on foot, first-hand.

Back in the 1920s, the Palmer Park district was located right on the interurban railway, running from the riverfront all the way to Pontiac. Full of cafes and bars, restaurants and theaters, Palmer Park attracted a diverse, vibrant, and often wealthy array of residents. The apartments, mostly commissioned between the 1920s and 1960s, display a variety of architectural styles, from an imposing Harry Potter-y English Tudor lodge to blocks of ostentatious Moorish designs and sleek, modern Art Deco lines. There’s a beautiful former Jewish temple back there and a sneaky Albert Kahn apartment building, commissioned by Walter Owen Briggs for Briggs Manufacturing Company workers who were having trouble finding apartments that would allow children.

Maybe you had relatives who lived in this neighborhood. Maybe YOU lived in this neighborhood! My dad had premarital counseling with his Rabbi in this neighborhood. It’s living history and it’s well-worth seeing.

Register here or in person tomorrow. (Tours run every 15 minutes between 12 and 2 p.m.) The tour fee includes a beautiful souvenir book, cider and donuts, and afterward there are hayrides and a bonfire.

2. THE RELEASE PARTY

These people aren’t invited.*

But you are! I made a whole page about it over here that you can share with your mom, your friends, and your favorite media personalities.

There’s a Facebook page, too. So it’s officially official. It’s free, it’s November 9, it’s at the Historical Museum, and all you have to do is show up. For cake. And hilarity.

*Clockwise from top left: Gabriel Richard; Emily Virginia Mason; Silas Farmer; Hiram Walker; Hazen Pingree; Clara Ward.

3. THIS VIDEO

Thanks for making it through the housekeeping. Now take 15 minutes to nerd out with Brian Mulloy of Michigan Essay who gave this talk about Chief Pontiac, “Detroit’s Original Badass,” at the TEDx Detroit conference last month.

Minutes after Brian started speaking, someone tweeted at me: “Uh, this guy is the boy version of you.”

To be frank I am kind of jealous that I didn’t come up with a talk like this first. It’s great. Enjoy it.

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champagne tower

[Source]

Dear Detroit,

It seems like just yesterday that our rascal voyageur, Antoine Laumet, the self-styled Sieur de Cadillac, shored his canoes on a verdant bluff above the straits and struck a flag in the ground for the glory of God and King Louis XIV.

Where have these 310 years gone? They’ve been a whirl of impossible circumstances, impossible people, impossible luck. Dapper steamboat captains. Damsels in French pony carts. All-night parties on the frozen river. Boy governors, shoemaker mayors, and speedboat-racing daughters of industry. (Also, Bavarian princess daughters of industry.)

Remember when you were surrendered to the British in 1812? What was THAT all about?

People from all over the world have come to your shores to make their lives better. Political unrest, geographical upheaval, potato blights, crooked land speculation, the hunger for freedom and the plain-old desire to try something different have all brought settlers here. And they made you a pretty cosmopolitan place, right from the get-go. Cadillac’s  first settlers mingled and married local Huron girls. Gabriel Richard came to escape the Jacobins. German lager-makers, Irish brawlers, Polish girls who went to work in cigar factories. New England Yankees who came to make a buck. Some of them did. Russian Jews, like my grandfather, who built flophouses and ran sugar for the Purple Gang. Kentucky peasants like my grandmother, who met my grandfather at a deli. Mid-Michigan farm girls, like my maternal grandma, who came to Detroit with her husband and worked in a munitions plant during World War II.

Ulysses S. Grant was here, smoking and drinking at musty old dive bars. Frederick Douglass and John Brown met here for the last time. Martin Luther King, Jr. was here. The Prince de Joinville was here, looking for the lost Dauphin. Tecumseh was here.

Keep at it, Detroit. I know it sometimes seems like you are not what you used to be. And that is true. But what city is? And why would we want it that way? Don’t let anyone tell you it’s over. Taken as a whole, these 310 years have been pretty remarkable. With a lot of grit and a little of that strange and ancient charm, you’ll enjoy 310 more.

With so much love,

The Night Train

P.S. – The Detroit Historical Society is celebrating with birthday cake, a special program called Seven Days: Seven Stories and free admission Sunday, July 24 – Sunday, July 31. The line-up looks wonderful.

P.P.S. – We are kicking off a special program of our own next week. A little celebratory summer cocktail party, of sorts. With LOTS of special guests. But no actual cocktails. Unless you want to come over and have a cocktail! Which can be arranged.

Last year’s post: Detroit turns 309

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city of destiny autograph

How do you ignore a book with a title like City of Destiny? Maybe if it’s crowded in with other dreamy promises with the literary fiction, you might walk right by, but not when you see it jacketed in soft blue cloth on a dusty shelf of Michigan history books. Because then you know: that’s my destiny. After all, here I am.

For some reason, I didn’t want to drop $15 when I saw this at John King on Saturday, even after I glanced a trove of newspaper clippings from the 1960s stuffed between the back pages. But City of Destiny haunted me, and when my fiancé came to bed that night, I whispered, half-crazed, “I need to go back for that book.”

So yesterday I went back for that book. When I brought it home, I opened the front cover to find the author’s autograph. And when, one-by-one, I unfolded the yellowed newspaper clippings that had stretched the book’s bindings, they were all about him: George Washington Stark.

Stark was born (on George Washington’s birthday) in 1884, the son of a Irish immigrant Great Lakes captain. He grew up in a house on Congress street near Elmwood Cemetery, which he said in an interview with the Detroit News on his 80th birthday “gave me my flair for the historical scene.”

Stark took a summer job at the archives Free Press in 1905 and spent a few years as a copywriter and a police reporter for the Detroit Times. In 1914, he left for The Detroit News, where he stayed for the rest of his career as a self-proclaimed “ink-stained wretch.” At the News he met his wife, Anne Campbell, the official News poet. That any newspaper ever employed a staff poet amazes me.

After stints as city editor (“My staff all went to war,” Stark wrote in the obituary he penned for himself, “[So] we hired a bevy of lady journalists who had just graduated from University of Michigan. I had to show them all where the City Hall was”) and drama critic (“with theater at the height of its glamor”), in 1938 William Scripps asked him to write a column about “Old Times and Old Timers” in Detroit. Through his column, Stark began to work with the Detroit Historical Society. In 1942, he became its president. “An old police reporter never looked forward to anything like this,” he wrote.

Which brings us to City of Destiny, published in 1943. It’s World War II, and Detroit is the Arsenal of Democracy, an industrial power like none the world had seen, pumping out guns, tanks, planes and engines at fever pitch. The city is growing like crazy.

George Stark remembered pre-automotive Detroit, a muddy place full of spooked horses and barn fires, but also peace, quiet, gentility and tree-lined avenues. He wrote City of Destiny, a treasure box of city history told fast and loose from Cadillac to press date, as a project in context. How did Detroit’s destiny lead from the rough river shores of Fort Pontchartrain in 1701 to the nerve center of World War II and one of the biggest cities in America?

The Arsenal of Democracy years are despaired as the late Detroit golden age of industry and prosperity, really the beginning of the story we tell each other now: Once it was great, and then it fell apart. But with so many reconsiderations of Detroit’s destiny on the table, is there value in returning to pre-automotive history, a history no living Detroiter experienced? Is it worthwhile to remember that the growth and prosperity the city experienced from the ’20s to the ’50s came almost overnight, and in chaos, and that it may have been unsustainable from the start?  Or is it too dead, too irrelevant to Detroit’s immediate concerns, to bother?

George Stark died in 1966, and in more than one of these newspaper clips, writers express some satisfaction that he didn’t have to see the ’67 riots, the rising crime, the desecration of his cemetery, the demolition of the monuments, the decay of the buildings — the end, in so many words, of Great Detroit. But in 1943, in his introduction to City of Destiny, Stark seems to get that “Great Detroit”  either always or never existed — that “Great Detroit” depended upon the industry, spirit and tenacity of its citizens only, and not its monuments or its machines.

From the introduction:

Since Cadillac came, the community, as outpost, village, town and city, has experienced both travail and triumph, each in heaping measure. It has endured fire and famine and pestilence and somehow survived them all. It has withstood rioting and the shock of savage assault and it has recovered from the humiliation of a craven military surrender. It has been rocked by political scandal and intrigue, but in every instance, it has quickly recovered its prestige.

These defeats and frustrations have been more than balanced by the triumphs. Or, if you prefer, THE TRIUMPH, for its present eminence is the result of no recent industrial development. Rather, it is the sequence of a long progression of men and events.

… Detroit is a changed community. Gone are its years of grace; the years of the wide-spreading elms about the lazy streets … The days of our grace are gone and the streets are crowded with newcomers.

Detroiters are still alive who remember when the population figure was the only index of glory. When Detroit surpassed Milwaukee there was great rejoicing. When it went beyond Cleveland, there was cheering and dancing in the streets. Today it is indifferent to the fact that it may at any minute pass Philadelphia … There is no time to think in population figures while the job still lies ahead. But since War’s beginning, Detroit has absorbed a population that would fill Cincinnati.

Somehow the housing problem is being met. Somehow the public health is being conserved … Somehow the enormous transportation difficulty is being overcome.

Detroit is opulent and generous.

The epitaph on George Stark’s tombstone in Elmwood is stained in glass at Mariner’s Church, where his funeral was held. I don’t know if it’s a coincidence or not:

no mean city

“I am a citizen of no mean city.” (Acts 21:39)

I can’t wait to spend more time with this book.

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perrys victory

Our Detroit history tour earlier this month left us with some unanswered questions about the fate of several artifacts from old City Hall, which was razed in 1961. We found some! Including a few we weren’t looking for.

Let’s check in, shall we?

I. THE CAMPUS MARTIUS

a. Find cannon from [Oliver Hazard] Perry’s victory.

These have moved to Belle Isle, standing guard in front of the Dossin Great Lakes Museum. These aren’t at all hidden, and it’s pretty common knowledge that they’re out there, but it took me stumbling on their latitude and longitude in the Historical Marker Database while I was looking for something else for the light switch to flip.

two cannons

(Also on Belle Isle: the camera batteries died, which happens a lot. Forgive the phone photography.)

Whilst waiting for some Oliver Hazard Perry admirers to conclude their photo op at the cannons,  we took a walk around the park and stopped to wonder at the tremendous limestone bell tower dedicated to Detroit News columnist Nancy Brown. Surrounded by a moat and a flock of evergreens, a few of which are fallen, behind a flaking iron gate, the structure is stately but gently blighted. I think the bells still ring, though.

nancy brown carillon

Nancy Brown was a beloved advice columnist who once inspired some 35,000 people to visit the Detroit Institute of Arts at the same time — maybe history’s first flash mob, an event the News called “Detroit’s greatest party.” Her bell tower, funded by her fervent readers, was christened in June, 1940. From a 6/24/40 Time article:

… Since 1934, at sunrise on Easter morning, Nancy Brown has sponsored a sunrise service on Belle Isle. Her readers, who flocked to the services in tens of thousands, heard preachers and speakers, but never were allowed a glimpse of her. With the fur collar of her coat turned up around her face, she mingled unnoticed among her admirers, for they had never even seen her picture.

Last week the Peace Carillon was unveiled at a sunrise dedication service on Belle Isle, and with it Nancy Brown was unveiled to her readers. Long before midnight, her audience began to gather in the grassy plaza around the limestone tower. Detroit police estimated that 100,000 people turned out to wait for Nancy.

At 4:45 a.m., as the sun rose over dewy treetops, the chimes pealed out Nearer, My God, to Thee … [and] diminutive Nancy Brown stepped to the lectern, peeped over and in a tremulous voice spoke to her readers for the first time.

c. Council chamber. Look at picture presented to Detroit by French Government, “Louis XIV delivering to Chevalier de Cadillac the ordinance and grant for the foundation of the City of Detroit.”

louis xiv and cadillac

We initially thought this painting, by Fernand LeQuesne, 1902, might be in the collection of the Detroit Institute of Arts, but they told us “No dice!” and recommended we check in with the Detroit Historical Society. Curator Joel Stone says it’s in the collection for sure, but its whereabouts within the museum are still in question — Mr. Stone thinks the painting may be in storage, but his database is behaving curiously, and word on its current location is pending.

A friend recently told me about some “women statues” in a back lot at Fort Wayne, which after trying to track down the LeQuesne painting I found out were pieces of the old City Hall — statues of Art, Commerce, Industry and Justice, plus the building’s cornerstore, cornices, archway pieces and other slabs of sandstone are apparently stacked out in the woods behind the Fort.

Fort Wayne is also home to the building’s clock face and clock tower bell. I learned more at Buildings of Detroit and detroitblog, and you can too! A field trip is, obviously, in the works.

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This weekend, Detroit celebrates the grand opening of The Accidental Mummies of Guanajuato, a world-premiere exhibition of 36 corpses that were naturally mummified in their tombs about 100 years ago. The exhibition at the Detroit Science Center — aggressively promoted as a highly educational experience — will delve into mummy science, forensics and facial reconstructions and Mexican culture and death lore.

mummies

It’s the first time the mummies have left Guanajuato. They will travel to major museums throughout the country over the next three years, and it’s a coup to have them in Detroit first. They’re also controversial and of course creepy as goddamn (but Mexicans celebrate the dead! Chill, America!), but in a post-Body Worlds society, can anything really shock and awe anymore?

On hand for the grand opening tonight is Mexico’s 6’5” former cowboy president Vicente Fox, former mayor of Guanajuato and all-around strapping, mustachioed ranchero.

vicente fox

I was pretty excited to learn that Vicente Fox was going to be here, but then someone told me that he comes to Detroit all the time.

Also on deck this weekend: a flea market at Historic Fort Wayne to benefit the Detroit Historical Society. Tours of the Fort and the military museums it houses will be available. We hear there is also a bake sale. Fort Wayne, built during the 1840s to protect the United States from a possible British siege via Canada, has never seen a shot fired in anger and has mostly been used as a mustering center, garrison post and supply depot. It’s named for “Mad” Anthony Wayne, the Revolutionary War hero who led the capture of Detroit in 1796.  (He died weeks later in Pennsylvania after contracting gout. Fun fact: he was exhumed and his bones were boiled in a cauldron that is now on display in Erie’s Historical Museum. Creepy as goddamn. But kind of awesome. Halloween road trip?)

mad anthony wayne

I’ve never been to Fort Wayne, and I look forward to seeing this mildly important Detroit landmark for the first time with the added flourish of lots of junk for sale.

(EDIT: Detroit’s Fort Wayne is also, maybe, sort of, haunted.)

Finally, we will not be able to make this show, but we recommend you do: the fantastic keyboard pop trio Lightning Love plays tonight at the Blind Pig in Ann Arbor to celebrate the premiere of a new music video. They’re so pretty! Go there!

lightning love

(Photo by Trever Long)

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