History

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In the early 1920s, my grandfather Isadore came to Detroit from what is now Belarus. My great-grandfather Yehuda was already here, building houses on the east side for the rapidly expanding community of other European immigrants settling at the boundaries the city.

Yehuda died in 1954. He was 86 years old. (If you want to skip the mental math, he was born in 1868. Time marches on.)

He’s buried at Workmen’s Circle.

I never would have known this had a reader not pointed out to me (at a really fun backyard party, after some champagne) that he’d noticed an out-of-place Orthodox Cemetery near Roseville, nestled between Wal-Mart and a Hampton Inn, or something. I forgot about it for a few days. (Thanks a lot, champagne.) Then I asked my dad where his parents were buried. He said they were at Beth El, at 6 Mile and Middlebelt, but that he thought his grandfather was somewhere around Mt. Clemens, at a Jewish Cemetery on Gratiot.

Let the games begin, right?

***

Detroit’s Jewish population in 1920 reached 35,000, a 10-year growth of almost 250%. In the city and all over the country, the climate was right for new congregations, new community organizations, new social clubs and new political movements.

Workmen’s Circle, a progressive Jewish fraternal organization dedicated to social justice and (at least today) a “big tent approach” to Jewish culture and community (see their website), was founded in New York in 1900. Rooted in the labor movement, progressive socialist politics and the Eastern European Jewish tradition, Workmen’s Circle was a big hit in Detroit. By 1917, the Detroit branch of Workmen’s Circle was the largest branch of the fraternity in North America and, by far, Detroit’s most popular Jewish organization. (See the Jewish Virtual Library’s entry on Detroit.)

Workmen’s Circle Cemetery was established in Clinton Township in 1919, with separate sections designated for member organizations, including several local congregations, Jewish lodges and friendship societies.

It’s one of the most distinctive (and well-kept!) cemeteries I have ever seen. Many of the burial sections have their own signs and gateways:

The search for my great-grandfather had barely begun when I found the Irwin I. Cohn Michigan Jewish Cemetery Index, a digitized and searchable database of over 64,000 burial records from the mid-1800s to 1999 for almost all of the Jewish Cemeteries in Southeastern Michigan. My dad cross-referenced, and within a week I knew that Yehuda was at rest at Workmen’s Circle, buried with his congregation in the Beth Schmuel section of the cemetery.

Dad casually mentioned that Yehuda had helped build, literally, Beth Schmuel. Founded in 1926, the congregation operated out of a rented hall for a few years before buying a house at Blaine and Twelfth from a bank for $2500 cash. Yehuda, a charter member of the congregation, helped convert the home into a synagogue, with apartments upstairs for the rabbi and his family. (More on the 40-year history of Beth Schmuel here. The congregation, which had grown wildly to a membership of more than 400 families, built a new synagogue at Dexter and Buena Vista in 1948, where they stayed until the congregation disbanded in 1959.)

Standing at Yehuda’s grave — lightning from a receding thunderstorm flickering in the sky — I felt an unusual chill. Readers of the blog will know that I’ve been visiting relative strangers at cemeteries since this project began. Why would Yehuda be different? He’s a relative. But a stranger. I know more about most of the dead people I’ve written about here than I know about him. If we were to meet, I’m not sure he’d feel much of a connection to me — an agnostic ethnic mutt, decidedly not Jewish (or anything else), a child of the comfortable suburbs.

But I am the daughter of his grandson. Our lives, and our experiences of the world, are completely removed from each other, but that fact remains.

It’s a funny feeling. Maybe that’s all there is to it.

In the Jewish tradition, I left a small stone on his grave marker. Like a hard, ancient, uncorruptable calling card:

Someone was here to see you.

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Just a quick news hit for you: France and Michigan, still crazy after all these years, have agreed to temporarily stop issuing each other papers over a 300-year-0ld Lake Michigan shipwreck that is, at this point, hypothetical.

Le Griffon made its maiden voyage on August 7, 1679, sailing from the Niagara River across Lake Erie, Lake Huron and Lake Michigan. It was the first time a full-sized sailing ship cruised Great Lakes waters.

This was the ship from which Father Louis Hennepin regarded Detroit, writing:

… The strait is covered with forests, fruit trees like walnuts, chestnuts, plum and apple trees, wild vines loaded with grapes, of which we made some little wine. There is timber fit for building. It is the place in which deer most delight.

On its return trip, Rene La Salle’s huge brigantine left Green Bay piled with furs. Then it disappeared.

Historians, prospectors and wreck divers have been trying to find it ever since. Wreck divers of my acquaintance have described it as a kind of white whale.

Several years ago, one diver, Mr. Steven Libert of Virginia, claimed that he found it. That got France and the U.S. asking some tough questions. Michigan says it’s in our water, so it’s ours, fair game. France says La Salle sailed for the king, under the French flag, so they get it back. This kind of fighting, for more than six years, has prevented anyone from finding out whether or not this wreck is actually the Griffon and therefore actually worth fighting about.

But today, sweet history, today! Michigan and France struck a deal. Mr. Libert now has permission to go about activities like carbon dating, sonar scanning and looking for the insignia of Louis XIV on cannons.

Needless to say, your friends at the Night Train are very excited at the news of this development and will follow the story as it unfolds.

This could be a really big deal! I’ll throw a cocktail party if it’s the genuine article. You’re all invited.

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Summer of Stroh’s

People keep asking (OK, mostly just my dad) why I don’t do a nice story about the old Detroit beers. Goebel. Pfeiffer. And of course, Stroh’s.

It’s the summer of Stroh’s. We’ve been drinking a lot of it. I’ve been wondering, given my love for another German immigrant whose flagship beer is now an American blue-collar classic, if there might not be something to love in the biography of Bernhard Stroh and his family.

And you know, there probably is. But I haven’t found out yet.

Here’s what I did find out:

The lion on the Stroh’s label comes from Bernhard Stroh’s first American brewery, which he called the Lion Brewing Company. Back in Kirn, Germany, the Stroh family began brewing beer at their inn during the 18th century (hence “Since 1775″ on the label). Bernhard Stroh (so the story goes) saw lions everywhere; they were part of Kirn’s municipal crest:

So when Bernhard built his glamorous new brewery palace on Gratiot Avenue between Hastings and Rivard, he commissioned the up-and-coming sculptor Julius Theodore Melchers, also a German immigrant, to carve two 12-foot tall crouching lions to sit atop the building and keep watch.

Julius Melcher is famous for two things: his cigar-shop wooden Indian sculptures, like this one:

And his four sculptures of Detroit’s founding Frenchmen that once adorned Detroit’s Old City Hall. Now they’re on the Wayne State campus:

Here’s the best part: Julius Melcher’s daughter Hettie married Bernhard Stroh’s son Julius. And that’s how Julius Melcher became not only one of Detroit’s favorite sculptors, but also … Vice President of Stroh’s.

Moral of the story: Beer and art belong together. I wonder if those lions still exist somewhere.

***

In less trivial news, you’ve probably heard about the huge fire at the abandoned Eastown Theatre — and the emergency demolition notice posted in its wake. For more on Eastown we defer, as always, to Detroit’s hard-working champion of all things buildings, Dan Austin, of BuildingsofDetroit.com:

The Eastown opened in a largely residential area on Harper Avenue near Van Dyke at 6:30 p.m. Oct. 1, 1931, with the movie “Sporting Blood,” starring Clark Gable. Advertisements in newspapers at the time declared the theater’s opening as the “dawn of a new entertainment era” and invited Detroiters to “thrill to the glory of Detroit’s newest, finest Palace of Happiness.’” The ads also proclaimed the theater’s opening as “the most glorious event in the history of east Detroit.” Business owners and merchants in the neighborhood pitched in by decorating the surrounding streets for the grand opening.

… The building was constructed between 1926 and 1930 and featured a 6-foot-high lit dome in the auditorium with a gold-gilded ceiling. The lobby featured imported marble with a wide, elegant marble stairway flowing into the mezzanine. Like those theaters downtown, the Eastown featured office space and stores, but it also had 35 apartments. In addition, it had the grand Eastown Ballroom, with large arched windows, a band shell and an oak dance floor. Up to 300 people could dine there on fine linen and elegant china or attend weddings and banquets.

Read up on the whole history of the Eastown here, including its riotous days as a drug-addled rough-and-tumble rock palace. It’s excerpted from Dan’s book Lost Detroit: Stories Behind the Motor City’s Majestic Ruins, which hits shelves at an independent local bookstore near you on August 30. (Or just pre-order it now.) Sweetly and sadly, the Eastown graces its cover:

You can see the post-blaze devastation of the Eastown in this video from detroitfunk.com:

Detroit. Don’t let your babies grow up to be abandoned buildings.

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Meet this guy!

I love this guy. Mostly just his hair, but his bowtie is nice too. Oh, and also, his fiery and righteous indignation in re: slavery and the legacy of liberty left to all Americans by the framers of our founding documents.

Handsome Devil Kinsley Scott Bingham was born in New York in 1808. In 1833, his family moved to Michigan, where Kinsley started a law practice — pretty routine for soon-to-be politicians of the day. Head West, sit for the bar, open up shop. And that’s what Kinsley did. He held local offices in Livingston County (Postmaster! Justice of the Peace!) and was elected to the Michigan House of Representatives in 1837, as a Democrat.

Fast forward to July 6, 1854. Thousands of anti-slavery activists convene in Jackson, Michigan to mobilize opposition to slavery in the territories and the repeal of the Missouri Compromise. The convention hall couldn’t accommodate the huge crowd of people, so the assembly was moved to a nearby oak grove.

Then, after some patriotic fanfare from the Jackson Brass Band, there was some good, old-fashioned speech-makin’.

Zachariah Chandler (former Mayor of Detroit!)’s speech especially moved some witnesses:

Misfortunes make strange bedfellows. I see before me Whigs, Democrats, and Free Soilers, all mingling together to rebuke a great National wrong. I was born a Whig. I have always lived a Whig, and I hope to die fighting for some of the good Whig doctrines. But I do not stand here as a Whig. I have laid aside party to rebuke treachery. In 1849, McClelland, Stuart, and Bingham stumped the State advocating the doctrine of the Wilmot Proviso and pledging their lives, property, and sacred honor in the maintenance of those doctrines, but not one of our representatives has ever been honest enough to carry them out, except Kinsley S. Bingham.

This speech is transcribed in William Stocking’s Under the Oaks: Commemorating the Fiftieth Anniversary of the Founding of the Republican Party. Stocking writes of Chandler’s speech:

This reference to Mr. Bingham was received with thunders of applause, followed by three rousing cheers. It was taken as an indication that Mr. Chandler, one of the strongest of Whigs, was willing to support for Governor Mr. Bingham, an old Democrat and only recently training in Free Soil ranks.

By the way, please enjoy how awesome this cover of Under the Oaks is:

How many Michigan Republicans can YOU spot? Bonus points for finding the Detroiters!

Anyway. Lots of people consider that day in Jackson the true birthday of the Republican party. Others make a case for the schoolhouse in Ripon, Wisconsin, where an informal county convention was held in March 1854. (My years as a resident of the Badger State led me to believe the latter, but this story sweeps me away so much that I’m ready to switch sides. I have no party. Like Zachariah Chandler, I just want to believe what’s right.)

Kinsley Bingham was elected Governor of Michigan that fall — making him one of the country’s very first Republican Governors. As Governor, he established the Agricultural College of the State of Michigan (which would later become — you know it — Michigan State University), a move that earned him the nickname “The Farmer-Governor.”

Kinsley Bingham’s Governorship ushered in nearly 25 years of Michigan Republican Governors, many of whom were also organizers or attendees of the oak grove convention.

After his second term, in 1859, voters sent Kinsley to Washington to serve in the Senate. In 1860, he campaigned for your friend and mine, Abraham Lincoln.

He’ s buried in Brighton. FIELD TRIP!

(We’re celebrating gubernatorial season with occasional profiles of intriguing Michigan governors. We already talked about William Woodbridge. We haven’t decided who we want to spend time with next, so if you have a favorite, let me know.)

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I wish I could draw, JUST so I could draw this guy:

[He] was an eccentric individual, tall and thin, and an old-timer, inasmuch as he clung to knee breeches, ample coat skirts and waistcoat. He wore his hair long, brushed straight back from his head and tied in a queue.

Isaac Day held a number of jobs in early Detroit, including Master of the House of Corrections (strikes me as a pretty fancy name for an old stone blockhouse in a frontier town. Oh, and it doubled as the public weigh house, with Isaac Day its weighmaster), chimney sweep and auctioneer. But his final job was as the Crier for the Wayne County Court. He carried a big silver-headed cane and his primary job seems to have been yelling at people to be quiet. Contemporary accounts allude to his love of whiskey.

He died in 1835, which saddened the court so much that several members of the bar wrote pun-bedecked elegies to his memory. This one is my favorite, by Judge Charles Cleland:

Step light! The light of Day’s expired.
Silent is he who silence oft required.
That stentor’s voice and that majestic staff
That raised the bearer and suppressed the laugh
Are heard by Day no more — nor yet by night;
Yet when the evening came, Day still was bright.
But Day today no more shall utter speech,
Since Day’s in darkness far beyond our reach.
Alas! Our Day has gone! No ray of light
Bespeak the Day — no morning radiance bright
Shall ever restore to this dark court, its Day.
Darkly they are left to feel this crooked way
Since, as we are told, in Day’s report,
Day hath no more Day in court.
None cry for Day, who oft have cried
To please the court, when men were tried.
Yet now that Day’s eclipsed, we say,
Peace to his names! Poor Isaac Day.

The other poems are heavier on the he-was-such-a-drunk jokes, which just seem mean-spirited.

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Detroit turns 309

On July 23, 1701 — 48 days after leaving Montreal and nearly five months after Louis XIV granted Cadillac the power to establish a fort and a town at Detroit (depicted here, 1902 painting by Fernand LeQuesne) — Antoine De La Mothe, Sieur de Cadillac came ashore, with 50 French soldiers and 50 French-Canadian voyageurs. The next day, he declared the settlement founded for the advancement of the glory of France.

Soon the great canoes were unloaded. Camp was struck in the woods on the bluff. The axes of 50 woodsmen rang through the forest stillness and the crash of falling trees scattered the wild animals.

So Detroit, City of Destiny, was born.

George Washington Stark

It was, wrote Clarence Burton, “a houseless city of a hundred souls.”

I know I said I was planning something really fun for today, and I’ll admit sheepishly, I had some big, fanciful plans crammed in between my big, stressful deadlines this week — plans that OF COURSE I couldn’t turn around, since they involved a flash mob at the Cadillac statue in Hart Plaza, some kind of parade, French-Canadian voyageur songs, my accordion, baguettes, culottes, rough-looking men in fur trader costumes, a ceremonial cannon shot across the straits, vintage Cadillac cars, and of course a grand entrance by wooden canoes. Followed by drinks. Anywhere.

This didn’t work out. For obvious reasons.  I was going to settle for a meet-up at the statue, a dramatic reading of Cadillac’s letter to France and maybe a processional to the bar, to the tune of some old coureurs de bois tunes. That didn’t work out either. Because I didn’t plan it. DAMMIT.

Anyway, a year from now, Detroit turns 310, and I hope that some of you will help me plan something grand to celebrate. If you are a rough-looking man, we’ll start looking for a fur trader costume for you. If you own a canoe, I will put you on the canoe-bringing list. If you know any coureurs de bois songs, we should hold a workshop.

And for God’s sake, if the French government can make William Cotter Maybury a chevalier, they can make anyone a chevalier. Here’s hoping that Detroit gets a new ceremonial chevalier every July 24 from now on.

***

This amazed me when I read it yesterday in The Historical Geography of Detroit, by Almon Ernest Parkins (1918). It’s something I sort of understood, but never as well as I do now:

Detroit was 53 years old when the British began their fort at Pittsburg … It was 95 years old when Moses Cleveland laid out the city that bears his name on Lake Erie. Detroit celebrated its centenary in the year that the Holland Land Company plotted the city of Buffalo at the mouth of Buffalo Creek. The first log cabin in Indianapolis was not erected until 118 years after the French began the city on the Straits. And Detroit had been making history 129 years when the Illinois Board of Land Commissioners surveyed the site of Chicago, the great metropolis of the interior.

“I am a warrior, not a writer,” Cadillac apparently said once. But he wrote anyway, and unless his translators have embellished his language over the past three centuries (entirely possible), he wrote well. I’ve shared this before, but it seems the proper occasion to share this, almost ritually, once more:

Its borders are so many vast prairies, and the freshness of the beautiful waters keeps the banks always green. The prairies are bordered by long and broad rows of fruit trees which have never felt the careful hand of the vigilant gardner. Here, also, orchards, young and old, soften and bend their branches, under the weight and quantity of their fruit, towards the mother earth, which has produced them. It is in this land, so fertile, that the ambitious vine, which has never wept under the knife of the vine-dresser, builds a thick roof with its large leaves and heavy clusters, weighing down the top of the tree which receives it, and often stifling it with its embrace.

Under these broad walks one sees assembled by hundreds the timid deer and faun, also the squirrel bounding in his eagerness to collect the apples and plums with which the earth is covered. Here the cautious turkey calls her numerous brood to gather the grapes, and here also their mates come to fill their large and gluttonous crops. Golden pheasants, the quail, the partridge, woodcock and numerous doves swarm in the woods and cover the country, which is dotted and broken with thickets and high forests of full-grown trees, forming a charming perspective, which sweetens the sad lonesomeness of the solitude. The hand of the pitiless reaper has never mown the luxurious grass upon which fatten woolly buffaloes, of magnificent size and proportion.

… If the situation is agreeable, it is none the less important because it opens and closes the door of passage to the most distant nations which are situated upon the borders of the vast seas of sweet water. None but the enemies of truth could be enemies to this establishment so necessary to increase the glory of the king.

I thought about Cadillac today when I was driving home through Southfield.  Baby, look at you now.

Vive le Chevalier. Bon anniversare, le Detroit. I wish I could speak French to tell you how much I love you.

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If you’re headed to Eastern Market this Saturday, here’s some trivia for you to consider while you’re shopping for delicious local produce: the Market, one of the oldest in the country, was formerly the site the Russell Street Cemetery, one of two city-owned cemeteries of the mid-19th century.

Situated on land that the city bought from some farmers, Russell Street Cemetery welcomed its first permanent tenant in 1834. The city was growing — and cholera was killing people in droves — and a smaller municipal cemetery, Clinton Park at Gratiot and Clinton Street, was getting cramped.

Within 30 years, though, Russell Street had become a little too cozy as well, and it was falling into disrepair.

Wrote General Henry Morrow to the City Council in 1861 (from Burton):

It is little short of disgraceful to Detroit that its cemetery should have been allowed to fall into the ruinous and dilapidated state in which we find it at present. It was once the place of interment for the whole city and in it are deposited the remains of many worthy and respectable people. When the city sold lots in the cemetery, it was with the implied pledge that the grounds should be and remain sacred for cemetery purposes. This pledge has been entirely overlooked or disregarded. Not only has the ground been neglected and the fences allowed to go to ruin, but a portion of the land has been appropriated for other purposes. The city has the power, without doubt, to prohibit further interments in the city cemetery, and it would be its duty to do this if the public health or convenience required such a step. But it is still used for the almost sacred purposes of burial, and yet all care of it is neglected.

The City Sexton, Peter Cleisen, appealed to the Common Council in 1857:

Gentlemen,

I respectfully represent to your honorable body, that certain persons are in habit of coming to the city cemetery and digging up bodies for the purpose of removal. Whether they have proper authority so to do I do not know.

The cemetery is under my charge and it seems to me proper that bodies should not be dug up except under my direction.

In 1869, burials stopped at Russell Street. Things were really a mess, and what’s more, the land was starting to look too good to waste on the dead. People were already selling hay and wood at market nearby, and Gratiot Avenue was the perfect conduit between the city and the country.

In 1879, a Circuit Court ordered the cemetery vacated.  From 1880 to 1882, more than 4500 remains were disinterred and relocated to Elmwood, Woodmere and a cemetery in Grosse Pointe.

And guess who stopped by during the excavation?

General Friend Palmer.

Rambling about the city a few days ago, I found myself in the City cemetery on Russell Street (corner of Gratiot Avenue) and it occurred to me that as the order had gone forth for the removal of the bodies still remaining buried there, I might idle away an hour or so scanning the few remaining tombstones, and that perhaps I might remember something in relation to them that would be of interest to the living.

… Many of our old residents will remember Captain Burtis. His grave is so near Russell Street that the passerby could read his name on the tombstone; doubtless many have done so, when it stood erect, and perhaps have wondered who this person was that once owned the high sounding title of Captain. Quite recently, some miserable vandal broke the stone in twain. The captain had the gift of forcible language to a remarkable degree, and I can imagine him standing beside his own grave, in the flesh, giving vent to his feelings against the perpetrators of the useless act in some of his choicest English. He died in 1836 at the age of 45, so the stone records, and though comparatively young, he had lived long enough to accomplish some few things to help along the growth of this great city and state.

No wonder the General and I get along so well.

Captain John Burtis established the first ferry from Detroit to Windsor (powered by horse) and built Michigan’s first steamboat — the Argo.

James Witherell, Supreme Judge of the Michigan Territory was also buried at Russell Street. Witherell used to own the land that became Palmer Park and Woods; he deeded it to his grandson, Thomas Witherell Palmer, who was General Friend Palmer’s cousin. James Witherell is now rests at Elmwood.

The General’s father, also named Friend Palmer, was buried  at the old Clinton Street Cemetery. I have no idea where he was removed to, but the story of the Clinton Street Cemetery is pretty amazing, too. So you can look forward to more graveyard arcana, if that’s your kind of thing.

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Woodmere is part of Detroit’s clutch of historic rural cemeteries. (See also Woodlawn and Elmwood.) It’s on Fort Street in Del Ray. The cemetery was founded in 1867 by a cabal of influential businessmen who wanted to plan a big (bigger than Elmwood), beautiful rural cemetery, far (farther than Elmwood) from the bustle of the city.

They did a pretty swell job, overall. And Woodmere is still in pretty good shape, even though some plots are crowded, with disorienting headstones facing every which way.  It’s hilly and rambling and there’s a lake in the middle ringed by leaning willows.

Woodmere also has a dedicated historian and champion, Gail Hershenzon, who literally wrote the book on Woodmere. She also runs a website with a digital records search (AMAZING!). And gives tours. I wish every historic cemetery had someone so loyal posted at this task. Anyway, we’ll leave the dirty work to her and just show you some of the many, many pictures we took.

Some folks you know might know who stay at Woodmere:

David Buick: founder of the Buick Car Company and (fun fact) inventor of bathtub enamel.

Dungaree hero Hamilton Carhartt.

Lumber baron David Whitney, whose former home is now The Whitney. See also: the Whitney Building.

Some things we noticed: A whole lot of Masons.

I love the Square and Compasses paned into the stained glass.

There are a number of fraternities, lodges and orders with monuments at Woodmere — some even have their own plots.

The Elk’s Rest.

A commemorative plaque in memory of Benjamin Geiger, erected by the Detroit Lodge No. 6 of the Ancient Order of United Workmen.

Woodmen of the World.

Woodmere also has a U.S. Army section, where a number of Civil War soldiers are at rest. Many were originally buried at Fort Wayne.

We met a lonely, pretty cemetery dog. I didn’t get too close and neither did he, but we regarded each other like this for a long time.

I like this unusual in-ground mausoleum. Hershenzon says the whole monument used to be sparkly white.

One imagines that it’s the obelisk that’s been growing, and not the tree:

There’s not as much Egyptophilia at Woodmere as there is at Woodlawn, but the Van Baalen crypt is a gem:

Check out the Pharaoh faces in the doors:

Plenty of headstones and gravemarkers in German.

A lovely barefoot angel watching over the Widman plot.

We took way too many photos. See more on our Facebook page.

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It’s a very special Fourth of July with Friend Palmer for you to kick off your holiday. The General writes about John Owen, a clerk at a general store, and Owen’s friend Captain Edwards, and their hilaaaarious Independence Day antics:

The then city marshal Adna Merritt [was] a nervous, excitable little body who used to get himself all tangled up trying to stop these two from starting and throwing fire balls, balls of cotton wicking soaked in turpentine and re-enforced with twine. It was quite common then on Fourth of July nights and on other nights as well, during the summer season, for the boys to ignite and throw these balls up and down Jefferson Avenue. Merritt tried to put a stop to it but Owen and Captain Edwards were dead against his doing so and supplied all the fire balls necessary from Dr. Chapin’s store. Did you ever see fire balls thrown or did you ever throw them yourself? ‘Tis great fun, and attended with some danger to the hands, and some to property, although I never knew of any harm to come from them. After a short season both Owen and Edwards joined the Methodist church, having gotten religion. No more fire balls from that quarter after that.

On that note, have a safe and happy holiday.

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Yesterday, of course, the world was rocked by the announcement that Boy Governor Stevens T. Mason’s remains, originally presumed to be — well, you know, in his grave — were MIA. The situation grew stranger by the hour as reports surfaced that no one even knew if they were looking for a coffin or an urn or what, despite the fact that Mason was disinterred (to make way for a bus station) and then laid back to rest in 1955. The same funeral home that is exhuming him now did that job and yesterday they were all like, “Oh, yeah, well, we don’t have any of those records. Who knows.”

To the collective relief of a frantic and confused nation, Mason’s crypt and casket were found a couple of hours later, about four feet away from where everyone thought they were. MY GOODNESS. This current disinterment is poor Governor Mason’s third — after his death from pneumonia in 1843, he was buried in New York, then dug up and sent back to Detroit with his 92-year-old (living) sister in 1905. So maybe the poor dude was just trying to make himself scarce.

As an expression of our great joy that this all turned out A-OKAY, your friends aboard the Night Train want to share this lovely work of prose with you about the dapper, darling Stevens T. Mason — Michigan’s first, and America’s youngest, governor — taking one of his first strolls around Detroit, happening ultimately upon what is now Capitol Park — his (sort of) final resting place. It’s probably imaginary, but we’re cool with that:

Arrayed in his skin-tight black broadcloth trousers and flowing cloak, jauntily gesturing with an ebony walking stick, Tom Mason sallied forth to explore the town. From the Mansion House he could see nothing on the downriver side but a spreading log citadel and an open farm. The Mansion House happened to be on the extreme western edge of town, at Jefferson Avenue and Cass Street. Sauntering down Jefferson Avenue and observing with satisfaction how people stared at him, he passed rows of cluttered store windows and presently arrived at Woodward Avenue. Three blocks. He saw a huge street, astonishingly wide, cutting the town in two and running straight back from the river toward the distant forest. To his right, still in the middle of lower Woodward, was the ignoble French Market and its rabble of gesticulating French habitants. He continued onward.

Three more blocks eastward on Jefferson, and he was staring at a tumble-down gate in an old pike-pole wall. This, then, was the eastern edge of town. It was just six blocks wide on the river, a compressed slice of city sandwiched between spreading farms … From the river the town marched solidly, row upon row of one- and two-story white frame stores and homes, as far as Congress — four blocks. There it stopped.

…  In 1828 the Council was seriously crticized for allowing the Territorial capitol building to be built so far out in the commons that it was far remote from the town and required a long, exhausting walk to get there. There was no road to it, nothing but a pathway continuing where Griswold Street gave up its wrestle with the mud at Congress. It was a good half-mile from downtown.

By the way: until reading this, I’d never made the connection that Capitol Park was where the capitol was. Whoa.

Writing about Capitol Park in 1947, the author continues:

… Hardly anyone in modern Detroit ever heard of such a place. It is a triangular little space at the head of Griswold, a block uptown from Michigan, crisscrossed with wide concrete sidewalks and boasting a couple of conspicuous comfort-station signs. Sunshine rarely reaches it; the towering cliffs of tremendous buildings hide it from all but historical researchers and people who are looking for parking places. How it could have been regarded, a century ago, as remote from the city of Detroit is utterly incomprehensible to today’s Detroiters. Those who can find it realize that the point is in the heart of the sprawling metropolis. Tom Mason and his father, John T., frequently waded in mud over their ankles and exhausted themselves trying to walk there from the town.

-Kent Sagendorph, from Stevens T. Mason: Misunderstood Politician, 1947.

I’ve just started browsing it tonight, but gosh, I love this book. Here’s a bonus: Let’s study with Stevens T. Mason, just returning home from the general store where he apparently spent most of his time lifting heavy things and getting ripped:
He walked the two miles home, flung his homespun jacket across a chair, took a flickering tallow candle and sat down at a table. In the dim yellow light, wavering and dancing before his eyes, he studied. He kept us his classwork as carefully as if he had to recite all those lessons the next day. He wrote comments in the margins of his father’s and grandfather’s works on philosophy. They are preserved to this day, and readable. One says: “This is silly!” The passage, in Adam Smith’s Wealth of Nations, is the famous dictum holding that any nation’s economic resources can be exceeded by the spending of tyrants.

Dear Adam Smith,

Whatever.

Yours,

Stevens T. Mason

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